|   clydesdale wheel advice needed... | Padre
May 27, 2003 3:34 PM | | The Spot Hub/WTB wheel combo that came stock on my siss and now on my 1x1 is giving up the gost. In it's 3rd month of life under my 240lb frame it can't last more than 1 ride w/out popping a spoke or bending the wheel. Not to mention the Spot needed a rebuild after a month.
I must pony up for a new hub/wheel.
I've almost settled on the King hub for its durability and freewheel-less experience..once I've stomached the cost..
now the wheel.. what wheel will be strong enough to support me on the hardtail...but still be light enough to pedal around?
Is the Mavic 519 enough or too much?
Any input would be appreciated... |
| Rhyno Lite XLs | offroadie
May 27, 2003 4:02 PM | | They aren't that heavy and given how hard on equipment you appear to be (no offense intended), you might as well build it up tough. I have them on my hardtail gear bike and I think they are pretty great. They roll fast (well, combined with the hubs and tires), are highly crash-resistant and are cheap. |
| my $0.02 | AZBound
May 27, 2003 4:16 PM | | I've got 30 or so more pounds than you, so maybe this'll be worth something. I've put a fair amount of mileage on the Spot/Mavic 221 rear wheel that came stock on my Kaboom and haven't had any problems, but maybe we've got different riding styles. The trails I chose up here in NorCal are arguably smooth. Also, my hubs are non-disc with wider flanges, so my wheels might be a bit more stable than yours.
Paul hubs seem sweet enough for much less cost than CKs, and perhaps a greater variety of freewheels and tooth counts are available than are King Cogs. Don't the CK cogs stop at 19 or something? Phil Wood hubs look nice but I'm not sure if they're a cassette type.
Another thought on the dorked hub is this - you broke your SISS frame in short order, yes? Have you tweaked the Surly's rear triangle maybe? I ask because a crooked dropout on an old geared bike of mine caused two axle breakages before it was discovered. Crooked fork ends pre-stress the axle and sometimes shorten its (or the bearings') life. It might be good to get a shop to shoot the rear end for proper alignment.
Broken spokes may be the result of a poor machine build job and/or inferior spokes. A properly hand-built wheel outlasts a robot build anyday. I like 3x, inside pulling 14 ga DTs with brass nipples. Does the Bianchi have Wheelsmith-built wheels or were they sourced from overseas? A hand build on you new wheels might solve your problems, regardless of rim or hub choice.
No comment on F519 rims - I like the Rhyno Lites on my gearie not just for the burliness, but because I like what their width does for my tire's contact patch. But again, the cheapo, triple cavity 221s are doing fine.
Good luck, and I hope you gain the reliability that helped draw us all to singlespeeding. |
| re: clydesdale wheel advice needed... | quaffimodo
May 27, 2003 4:34 PM | | As a fellow "differently light" rider, I can't say anything bad about my WTB Laser Discs (built on King Hubs). I'm sure there's some real junk spec'd on bikes from time to time but I think the quality of the build is probably a more significant variable than the type of rim in a majority of cases. It's a rare machine-built wheel that won't benefit from a good once-over by a competent wheelbuilder before being put into service.
I know some other not-small people who swear by the Rhyno Lites, for the reasons alluded to in the previous post. Big thumbs up on the King hubs by the way. A bit fiddly to set up in the first 50 miles or so but once you've got that behind you you'll never think about them again. |
| Padre.....here's what you need!! | 2farfrwd
May 27, 2003 4:44 PM | | Padre,
I know they are expensive, but here's what you need at your weight. I had Tani @ The Path build me up a set of King SS hubs laced to Mavic 519's for my Surly 1x1 before I moved to Colorado in March. I weigh almost 250lbs and I have been ridding them hard without even having to true or retension them yet. Also, I have not had any of the slippage problems that have been haunting you, not even one episode of slippage! If you can stomach the $500+ dollars for them, you will be really happy and they will last you a while. Those Wheels that came on your SISS are way to soft for your weight. Good luck!!! |
| Yeah.. Tani was pushing me to the CK's... but... | Padre
May 27, 2003 5:43 PM | | but the wheel issue still haunted me. The RhinoLites I have on my Bullit and seem like an overkill.. if that is even possible...the 519s are a bit more than the 221's I take it.. while the RL's are the Costco wheel it seems...
yeah.. the Bianchi parts spec is cheap.. but you get what you pay for...
as mentioned, I should have the Path check out the alignment of the 1x1 rear triange. That bike seems SOLID though. I hammer it HARD all the time and it doesn't wimper. But after 6 broken spokes and 4 wheel trues and 1 hub rebuild, I think its time to add that wheel to the junk pile.
I think I'll keep the front wheel until it taco's as well. |
| rambling, maybe something useful | Chequama Mama
May 27, 2003 6:08 PM | | Just an observation.
As someone else mentioned, parts may be less important that build quality. If the wheels were badly machine built, using less that stellar parts (cheap spokes) this could lead to some problems. One of my buddies is in your weight range. He bought a Jamis Dakar (mid range model) a couple of years ago. Don't remember the wheel spec, but they were machine built (tensioned at the shop, because they do that on every bike that roles through the door) but he was poppin spokes (non-drive side) and having untrue wheels all the time. Apparently the forces from the disc brakes were not meshing well with the poorly built wheel. He got some shimano hubs laced up to rhino lites (handbuilt) and I'm pretty sure hasn't done anything but touch them up for a season or two. The point? I'm not sure, I guess just saying that maybe the parts aren't all that bad, just maybe how they were put together. |
| I like my cheapies! | xrmattaz
May 27, 2003 6:24 PM | | I'm 6'4" or so and 235lbs.
I have two pair of Rhynolites/Surly 1X1 hubs/straight 14 gauge
spokies and brass nips. The stockers in the QBP catalog.
I only pay $240. for a pair, and I can't kill 'em! No
truing, no dents...riding in the Arizona "rockies". |
| OOps, edit to say "$140./pair" !! | xrmattaz
May 28, 2003 5:44 AM | | |
| 245 here | burdiman
May 27, 2003 7:56 PM | | and I run shimano xt 36 hole built to mavic 618 rims. I prefer the 618 over the 519 because it has double eyelets (faster lace and in my opinion stronger at the eyelet). I build all my wheels with a tensiometer and they almost never go out of true (including last month in Moab on a hard-tail). |
| The 300 pounder says... | DancingBear
May 28, 2003 5:34 AM | | A good way to add strength and stiffness to any wheel is to have it built 36 spoke 4x. This, and a good builder, can add lots of strength to the wheel. Also, I've had lots of luck with rhyno lites. Mavic 521/321 are bomb-proof, but for the price I think rhynos work just as well. |
| Clyde Wheelz | Soupboy187
May 28, 2003 5:29 AM | | I don't think you can ever go wrong with the Rhynos as a Clyde.
That said, I run F219s on my dually and F519s on my SS. Went with the 519s due to slightly less weight, though still very sturdy, and the fact that they are rim brake compatible if I ever had to sell or wanted to revert back to Vs.
I go 235# with gear and have never had an issue with the Mavics. Run CK (rr) and Hope Bulb 20mm (fr) on the dually and Paul Word Disc (rr) and CK disc (fr) on the SS. Very happy with the Paul so far.
The SS is so fun to ride it may ultimately put my Clyde status at risk...yeah, right.
-Sean |
| Thanks guys! After researching your advice... I think... | Padre
May 28, 2003 7:12 AM | | I'm going to go CK hub.. w/ either the RhynoLiteXL or the Mavic321. I'm guessing the Mavic will be a hundred bucks will the Rhyno will be forty so that might help me with the decision.
I'll let you know.
Padre |
| RE: 321's | Doug B.
May 29, 2003 10:38 AM | | IME the 321 is not the best trail rim. It is heavy. This translates to a damped, but slow rolling and hard to climb wheel. I run them on my freeride rig, but wouldn't think of putting them on a bike that was for all around riding. Just too much resistance to rotation.
I would recommend something like the 519 or d521 on the burlier side. Both of which are substantially lighter and more trail friendly rims. I have run several 521 rims and if built well they are a great rim to build a wheel around. I have typically been able to build them up and ride for 1-2 seasons and then sell them for a good portion of a new set.
I personally tip the scales at a barely clyde weight of 205lb, but am a bmx kid at heart and am in favor of hucking off anything that gets me some hang time. |
| Your sentiments match those of the LBS guy.... | Padre
May 29, 2003 10:41 AM | | |
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