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MountainBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - - Passion -
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Need help w/ Time Atacs, Pleeeaasssseeee???? (14 posts)
|  Need help w/ Time Atacs, Pleeeaasssseeee???? | mtbmon
Feb 13, 2002 10:27 AM | | Long story short, my drive side ATAC is seized in the crank arm. Ive done everything (heat, cold, penetrating stuff, you name it). I wound up rounding out the allen bolt on the spndle body and the freakin thing is still stuck. Timesports said I should remoce the pedal body and then try to remove the axle that way. OK, I haven't tried that but I will as soon as I figure out how to remove the pedal body. Anyonw have experience with this? Ive checked the archives and theres nto much there. A diagram would be awesome so I knew what to expect. Anyway, any help is hugely appreciated. |
| Try this | LoneWolf
Feb 13, 2002 11:18 AM | | This worked for me once.
Remove the crank and the chainrings. Find a decent size vise, 4" or 5" minimum, that's bolted to a good work table.
Insert the pedal downward (allen bolt up) into the vise with the flat sides of the pedal against the jaws of the vise. Insert into the vise until the crank arm just clears.
Now tighten the vise. Really get down on it, crushing the pedal and cartridge against the spindle as tight as you can. Here is where you might have to remove the pedal body first to get a good grip on the spindle.
Find an old bottom bracket spindle that fits your crank arm. (Maybe your LBS?)
You need enough spindle sticking out of the crank to get a good size pipe wrench on it.
Lock the pipe wrench on the spindle and turn it in the direction the pedal is supposed to come off, for the drive side that should be counter-clockwise I think.
This gives you the opportunity to use more leverage by sliding a metal pipe over the wrench handle. But be careful! This much leverage can bend or break things.
Best result: Pedal comes loose but is destroyed.
Not so good: Pedal comes off but crank arm is bent or broken from pressure.
Worst case: Pedal still stuck and now crank is bent or broken.
If you want to remove the pedal from the spindle the hard way:
Wrap the crank arm with a thick rag and have someone hold it so the pedal is resting against either a vise or something hard and solid. Take a metal chisel (commonly called a cold chisel) and using a good size hammer use it to cut the pedal body away from the spindle. Four or five good smacks using a sharp chisel should cut it off.
Good Luck. |
| 207.171.93.45 | Fiver
Feb 13, 2002 12:13 PM | | One thought |
| What I was trying to say | Fiver
Feb 13, 2002 12:14 PM | | Not sure what happened to my first post, but this is what I wrote:
It struck me that this is your drive-side pedal that's stuck. Are you aware that drive-side pedals are reverse-threaded? If you're trying to loosen it the "normal" way, you're actually tightening it further. |
| Right is right, left is left.... | Monte
Feb 13, 2002 12:26 PM | | Pedals, right is righthand thread, left is lefthand thread. Drive side is right hand thread.
Monte |
| holy confusion batman! drive side=clockwise to loosen? | mtbmon
Feb 13, 2002 12:36 PM | | taht is correct right? |
| Nope | Spike
Feb 13, 2002 12:49 PM | | drive side (right side) is counter clockwise to loosen. Otherwise known as righty-tighty, lefty-loosey in technical terms. |
| But he's loosening from the inside | Buster Hyman
Feb 13, 2002 12:54 PM | | Looking at it from that perspective I believe it would be clockwise to loosen. |
| Right | Fiver
Feb 13, 2002 1:41 PM | | Since ATACs are only removable by using a hex wrench from the inside of the axle, that's how I was looking at it. Tighten towards the front of the bike; loosen towards the rear. If that's how you're approaching it, what I said originally is correct.
If, however, you have another brand of pedal (or Time Aliums) and you're using an adjustable wrench on the axle from the outside of the bike, then reverse what I said originally. You're still tightening towards the front of the bike and loosening towards the rear, but your perspective has changed. |
| Rats! | Spike
Feb 13, 2002 2:01 PM | | It was a trick question! Ummm, I guess I answered the wrong question. This is why I don't post in tech talk. :-)
Spike |
| Your problem was . . . | Fiver
Feb 13, 2002 2:44 PM | | . . . that you responded to what I wrote, instead of what I actually meant. I definitely could have been clearer. |
| Try this... | Tom 411
Feb 13, 2002 2:02 PM | | What are you trying to do get the pedal out of the crank?
If so, remove the crank and secure it in a vice.
Take your nice full size park pedal wrench and fit a pipe over one end.
Make sure you're turning the wrench the correct way (the pedal unscrews towards the back of the bike)
Now, go "gorilla wild" or "ape shit" on the thing until it turns and frees up.
I had to do this once - pretty wild when it finally broke free some sparks flew out of the crank at the threads !!! |
| DO WHAT THIS GUY DID!!!!!!!!! | HUGE-GENE
Feb 13, 2002 2:45 PM | | "About five miles out of Tanana I skidded on the glare ice. When I picked myself up, I found I had broken a pedal. I returned to Tanana, and, with the help of the storekeeper, cut out wooden pedals and drilled a hole through the center of each. I also bought bolts, nuts and washers. The pedals wore out about every 75 miles."
This guy rode his bike to Nome AK, in 1900. |
| Had it happen to me...... | celly
Feb 13, 2002 3:46 PM | | BOTH sides. One bike shop gave up, saying I'd never get them out (the wrench is a bit of a moron, so I took his advice with a grain of salt). Took it to my fave mechanic and he put an allen wrench in a vice. He then powered the pedal into it and used the crank arms as leverage to get the pedals out.
Once you get the pedal out, grease the piss out of the spindle, and barely tighten the pedal next time. They don't need much.
Good luck. |
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