|   Sneak peek (my new ride) | D.F.L.
Jun 15, 2003 10:22 AM | | I was so excited, I needed to share. (plus, it's pouring rain today)
Here's my new 29er. Steel, not yet painted.
25"TT
71.5 HA / 72 SA
16.75" CS
12.25 BB
It's set up for everything, with full guides for gears, and an EBB for SS use. Disc only.
It'll also run 26" wheels without altering geometry or BB height, but I'm waiting on the WB fork to help make that possible. As shown, it's a 29er only.
I can't wait to get it out for a real ride.
Any feedback is welcome! |
| how? | BioPace
Jun 15, 2003 12:59 PM | | How can you keep the geometry the same with 26" wheels? Won't the BB get lower with smaller wheels?
And what about trail? With smaller wheels the trail will decrease causing twitchier steering.
A longer fork will slack out the seat tube and head tube so how will that work?
Just wondering?
thanks
BioPace |
| Why? | Skateparks
Jun 15, 2003 5:02 PM | | did you build an unpainted steel bike?
Why would you make it a 26", assuming that you could?
What will the ST angle be with a 9" travel fork necessary to get the same BB height as in 29" form?
What will the WB be with said fork?
WHY< WHY< WHY ?!?!
I have a few hundred more questions but I'm too tired right now...
-t |
| Porque... | D.F.L.
Jun 15, 2003 8:00 PM | | Well, I took too long making it, ran out of time and couldn't paint it. How's that for an incomplete answer? (needed to show it to some people over the weekend)
I've seen people ask if there was any possible way to run either wheel, and thought it'd be fun to build a bike that could. Why run 26s at all? Cool, multi-colored tires, perhaps.
The WB BW 1.0 adjusts travel, so you run short travel with the 29s and long on the 26s. Adjust the rear drops, and you're just about at the same altitude. Of course, the WB only adjusts about 25mm, so you'll still be off by about 12. Those forks are pretty simple, so I'm hoping to extend the travel range a bit. (Almost bought a Shiver SC for this one.)
It's just meant to be fun and get people thinking. It's the old "if you could only have one bike (but 2 sets of wheels and various additional componentry)..." question. Turns out that the adjustable ride may be cool even without the 26" option. Just like to hear what people think. |
| You don't need the full 1.5" adjustment | Cloxxki
Jun 15, 2003 9:42 PM | | Cool feature, that adjustable dropout, though pretty useless on a hardtail. Well, unless you wouldn't change the 29" front wheel and just use the bike for freeride with slacker angles when going 26/29. I'd then say, set the bike up with a short travel for 29" and long travel for 26" (only change the rear wheel). BB doesn't drop that much that way, while angles change enough to make it work for DS, FR or DH, and you get enough fork travel for the job. Don't think your goals were anywhere there, though.
700c vs. 26" only differs 63mm, so it's 31.5mm at the wheel axle. |
| re: Sneak peek (my new ride) | Fulton
Jun 15, 2003 7:51 PM | | I'm a little curios about the geometry stuff as well, but none the less, that is SIC. You should just get it clearcoated, that would look badass- |
| looks good to me | cursivearmy
Jun 15, 2003 7:55 PM | | hey,
bike looks purdy good to me, i have always dug on unpainted steel, Salsa used to do that with there frames back when ross was at the helm. who built the frame, can't make out the name on the downtube.
seems like a fun ride to me, geometry seems just right, the only thing i can suggest is that if you are using the cable avids, that the Avid Full Metal jackets straight sections of stainless tubing are really nice and negate any bending in the housing, and thus reduce friction. purdy good.
keep us updated on the paint.
over and out
nate |
| Why would you... | roma
Jun 16, 2003 4:49 AM | | put the decals/transfers on the frame before painting? |
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