|   rear disc wheel slippage on Monkey?? | ncj01
Jan 11, 2004 7:25 PM | | So while my new disc's are working like a total pile of crap and not nearly as strong as my V-brakes, I'm still finding that everytime I throw the rear brake on good and hard (and have traction), ie i actually apply some stopping power to the rear wheel, it pulls my wheel sideways in the tracks. this makes henis noise in the disc itself, and sometimes my tire rubs the chainstay.
Sooo...i know the first thing that may be suggested is that my skewer isn't tight enough. Wheel, i assure you, its on so tight that I damn near can't get it loose without a pair of pliers and a cheater-bar.
The skewers are American Classic's. Are these known to be weak skewers? Do you think the new powder coat could be a slippery surface and the skewers just can't get any "traction"?
Whats up with Avid Mech Disc's? Mine work like total crap. I'm over the 6hr of saddle time for break-in, they're still not doin' it for me....
Related note: this frame and matching rigid fork will be posted for sale within the next 2-3 wks. As always, I will buy a MTBRclass ad even if its sold without listing necessary. |
| brake contamination, surley tug-nut | fatire
Jan 12, 2004 5:27 AM | | hey nate,
this is steve, chuck's ridin bud.
while I have no experience with avid mechs., i'm sort of a disc veteran.
if your disc's work like crap, and they're mechanically* set up correctly, i'll bet that they somehow got contaminated as this brake-set are very well proven.
they will never be as "grabby" as v-brakes but should have equal or better stopping power then a brand new set of perfectly set-up v's and the amont of control over the braking force is way better.
we're they new?
if this is your first dance with discs you've got to be extremely careful with spray on lubes and even handling the rotors with your bare hands as it's very easy to contaminate them.
i'd suggest the following: take all the pads out and run them thru a dishwasher cycle (if you have access to one). obviously leave the greasy dishes in the sink!
and give the rotors a soapy wash with Dawn detergent (can be done on the bike.)
The dishwasher trick works very well at removing contaminants from the pads but if you don't have access to one you may need to replace the pads all together.
* on the mechanical side I have heard that cables can make a difference. Avid and some other companies have sets specifically for mech brakes.
on the wheel slip issue, the mechanical forces from braking can exceed the biggest grunt of a pedal stroke you can take. on v brakes the braking force is applied to both sides of the wheel. on discs it all goes to one side and as luck (or physics would have it) this force wants to twist the wheel in the very same direction as pedalling.
i tried a bolt on skewer on my KM and quickly learned that a surley tug-nut is pretty much required to keep the wheel straight.
i'm only using on on the drive side but may go to both sides as i'm still getting a small degree of movement on the rotor side, enough to get some occasional irritating drag and noise on my rear brake.
hope this helps,
steve
FYI my e-mail is steveATmtanembaDOTorg |
| thanks, and my plan is... | ncj01
Jan 12, 2004 6:00 AM | | to not worry about the wheel slippage, becuase I should have my new frame in within 2 weeks or so. I need road bike time anyway....
as far as the weak power of the disc's, i agree action must be taken. It's further annoying becuase they're a demo fisher cake at the LBS, and it has the EXACT same brakes on it,,,,they work so well, its dangerous.....Mine where brand new...installed by LBS..and work very poorly after 6+hrs of riding, 1/2 of which was incliment weather...I figured for sure they'd be working by now...I'll re-clean/wash them while apart for the new frame and see if I can get lucky....
Avid Flack-jackets best bet for cables? |
| Suggestions.... | bigwheelboy_490
Jan 12, 2004 6:36 AM | | Good cables and casing will definitely help the performance of your disk brake.
As mentioned before, if the brake has been contaminated with oil, this will affect braking performance. For the rotor, I would suggest a trip to your local automotive parts store to pick up some disk brake cleaner. Spray it on the rotor to clean it properly. I'd suggest taking the rotor off the wheel to do this to avoid letting the cleaner hit your tire or get into the bearings. As far as the pads go.... buy new ones, and keep the old ones as spares.
If contamination has not been an issue, check to make sure the rotor is centered properly. If the active caliper has to flex the rotor a great deal it will detract from braking performace.
With slipage in the frame, many new QR's are designed for aluminum frames with vertical drop outs. Most current QR's will not provide enough closing force. Shimano make some QR's specifically for steel frames. They also provide much better closing force. Ran into this problem last summer on my spouses steel Pinnarello Road bike. The bonti QR's would not provide enough closing force so the wheel would skip out of the drop outs during load. Different QR's made the difference.
Hope this helps. |
| what frame are you getting? nm | SPR
Jan 13, 2004 7:28 PM | | |
| What size is your Monkey? | SoloWithOthers
Jan 12, 2004 8:08 AM | | I amy be interested |
| What size is your Monkey? | ncj01
Jan 12, 2004 11:16 AM | | its the XL/22" with 24.9" eff TT.
It will include the Rigid Fork, also Powdercoated, to match the frame. I'm thinkin' of picking up a new WB BW .8, so there may be a chance I'd leave the fork on there.
here was its most recent SS incarnation:
and as it is today:
here's a nice shot: |
| What size is your Monkey? | ncj01
Jan 12, 2004 5:29 PM | | oh, contact me offsite at ncj01@uark.edu if'n you're feelin' the power.... |
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