|   Help: Suspension Fork madness | cruiser
Dec 8, 2003 11:30 AM | | I am a beginner and would like some help.
How important is it to have a suspension fork with dampening, for ride quality and for handling technical terrain?
None of our family's bikes have forks with dampening. We have a RST 281R, two RST Capa TLs, and a SR SunTour XC60 fork. These forks are all the cheap pogo stick forks of which reviewers seem so contemptuous.
We ride recreationally, offroad mostly cross-country. The obstacles we encounter are short steep hills, roots, logs, rocks, rolling trails, water, and mud. We seldom encounter any drops, none more than 3 feet.
Will forks with dampening really make that much of a difference for us. I have checked out all the forks and the cost of these are quite high. If I buy, I will be looking at buying forks for four bikes. This could be very expensive. I am not sure that such a purchase is worth the cash.
Even a good deal on some Marzocchi MX pro ETA forks is going to end up costing me nearly $2000 CDN, to outfit four bikes.
A co-worker who has Marzocchi forks and XTR components, and who has been mountain biking for years, says that I should not bother. He says our current forks have very little maintenance and I should just stick with them until they wear out. Expensive forks need rebuilds, oil changes, and air adjustment on a regular basis.
He says that rider ability is more important than the equipment, and that I should forget about upgrading and just focus and my technique. |
| Buying a good fork... | fred³
Dec 8, 2003 12:16 PM | | allows you to tune the fork to your weight and riding style. I'd guess that since the bikes you bought came with these inexpensive forks that the bikes themselves aren't much better(no offense intended). You would actually be better off buying whole new better bikes than spending lots of just a fork since you don't even know if your present bikes will handle the possible change in geometry.
All in all you don't need any more than you have right now if you already manage to ride and enjoy it. |
| Forks and riders | EricTheRed
Dec 8, 2003 12:18 PM | | If your fork does what you want it to do then there is no need to upgrade. Also if you are thinking of getting a better fork you also might consider just getting a new bike, the upgrade (depending on what needs to be changed) could be just as expensive.
its all about the rider |
| Forks and riders | cruiser
Dec 8, 2003 1:02 PM | | I am not going to buy new bikes. Three of the bikes are new this year. The other one is only two years old.
Two of the bikes are new Giant Rincons (24 spd Altus/Alivio). One is a new Schwinn 240-DSA (24 spd Acera/Acera). The oldest bike is a CCM Cliffrunner II (21 spd SIS). I just bought a Cloud Nine ($225 US) for that one, since the cheap RST spring-over shock that came with it has lost its spring. With full preload you cannot prevent very bad bobbing. The Cloud Nine is a Christmas present for my son.
As far as new bikes go, I have found that unless you spend thousands of dollars on a single bike, you cannot expect to get a fork that is well rated. Even bikes costing over $2000 CDN have forks like the Marzocchi EXR (called a beginner fork by some reviewers), or a Manitou Axel, also considered inferior by reviewers, or a Rock Shox fork that is not well rated, like the Judy or Pilot.
This all makes me question the need for dampened forks. For racing and downhill, I can see the need. I am not sure that a rec XC rider will benefit enough to warrant the cost.
What difference has a good fork made to your recreational aggressive XC riding? What can you do now that you could not before? Is it in some way safer?
|
| Forks and riders | jakey
Dec 8, 2003 1:44 PM | | For your needs a judy or a manitou six or the like will be more than adequate. I have found with all reviews by users that you will get some that hate even the best of the best. I've run low end rock shox and manitous and never had a problem.
Depending on your terrain, what you are using will be fine. |
| Forks and riders | Chas
Dec 8, 2003 4:09 PM | | I bought a Rincon in 2000 and it also came with a SR SUNTOUR fork. Some springs and elastomer. Nothing much else. I replaced it a year later with a ROCK SHOX JUDY - and end of model year close out from Price Point. It made a real difference in the bike's ride for a rather small investment. I wouldn't spend too much money on a fork but you'd be surprised how just one-two levels higher on the components takes you.
Remember that magazine reviews are written by professionals who spend their jobs riding and critiquing mid-and high priced bikes. Sure the JUDYs (at least in their current model line) and AXELs will be panned. They aren't as sophisticated as their high end bretheren.
For basic recreational XC riding you really don't need all the bells and whistles. Shop smartly and you'll do fine. Look for the best fork you can find for less than 200 dollars. |
| Forks and riders | cruiser
Dec 8, 2003 6:12 PM | | The most fanatical mountain bikers that I know are on Marzocchi forks. From the reviews and articles I have read, they seem to be a pretty good choice for a fork.
I was looking at the MX Pro ETA and the MX Comp ETA. Then I saw the EXR, an OEM fork that is on many expensive bikes. I have seen this fork for $215 US. The reviews give it a good rating but some of the reviewers seemed to think that if you had one, you would want something better later. Still, it has a 120mm travel version- if you can find one that is not on an OEM bike -and it has dual springs, so I guess you don't have to worry about them leaking air. However, at 120mm and with bobbing you won't be climbing hills very effectively.
The MX Pro ETA has the externally adjustable rebound dampening, ETA, and the SSVF dampening valve. It has a spring on one side and air on the other. It also comes in a version with 120mm travel. The fork seems to have much to offer for the price.
That's the problem. I can't see upgrading twice, considering the price. If I am ever going to change all the forks over, I figure on getting something that we all can live with and rebuild for years to come.
But, that means a major expense and I want to hear what the case is for needing such forks.
I have someone I know telling me to forget new forks and just ride, the ones I have are plenty good enough. So, saying that the bike handles better is a little vague for me when I have $2000 of expense to consider.
Can someone be more specific? |
| My experience... | EricTheRed
Dec 8, 2003 8:25 PM | | I was working at a shop a couple of years back and had gone on a couple of rides w/ some of the shop folk who had been riding for many more years than I had been riding. I had a '98 spec rockhopper w/ a manitou Spider R fork. I decided to take advantage of employee discount and got a Marzocchi Z2 atom 80 (oil spring both sides). The first time out on the trail with the new fork i did like most others would do, ram it into everything and how it felt. It was impressed, the travel felt bottomless. But the thing that really convinced me this was a good purchase was when i was taking the route home through a trail i'd never ridden; in my lack of experience i was aimed directly at a rock i stared at it and couldn't avoid it. I thought there was no way i was going to roll over , i thought i was going OTB fast, but the fork just sucked it up. The old fork would have stopped dead on that rock. I will admit that i bought the fork to improve my skill, and it did at the time, but now i could easily ride the same trail w/ a rigid fork. I still have the fork and it works just as good as ever, new oil(easy job btw) and seals(if it needs it) and its ready to rock. Could i have survived w/ an elastomer fork? yes. Would i still have had fun? yes. Would i have gone as fast? probably not. Would i have improved as a rider? yes. Do i still have the Manitou fork? nope, broke after 2 years. |
| Get the EXR | Ben B
Dec 9, 2003 3:25 AM | | you may think you dont ride that often or hard. When you get a decent fork you will ride longer and harder than before. The EXR has the same damping system used on some of the more expensive marzocchi's and it is very smoth if you have the preload down a bit. My friend has an EXR and does drops on it all the time and it has lasted, the cheap manitous dont last, they break. If you are woried about the pedal bob then dont stomp when you are pedling or just pump the fork up. I think the EXR have a valve that fits normal pumps. Get the coil if you want to do anything harder. |
| My experience... | cruiser
Dec 9, 2003 6:54 AM | | Now that is the sort of answer I was looking for.
Let me interpret if I may.
If you are riding a trail and encounter a tricky bit where you unavoidably strike a biggish rock, root, or log. Then you can count on the fork to absorb it, without loss of control.
This would increase safety and aid in technical sections.
You said that your bike would have stalled on the rock with your old fork. How big was the rock you hit?
How big are the rocks, roots, or logs we talking about here. I have three inches of travel in my RST Capa TL fork. I feel OK to hit a two or three inch rock, root, or log with my current fork. However, I usually need some speed to carry me across.
Will a dampened fork do it better in some way?
Will a dampened fork absorb hits at slower speed without stalling the bike?
Will a dampened fork work better for bigger rocks, roots, and logs? |
| The basic answers.. | Ken in KC.
Dec 9, 2003 8:05 AM | | I have three inches of travel in my RST Capa TL fork. I feel OK to hit a two or three inch rock, root, or log with my current fork. However, I usually need some speed to carry me across.
Will a dampened fork do it better in some way?
ANSWER: The short answer is yes, it will do it better. A fork with more adjustment in both the postive (going down or compressing) and rebound (returning to its regular position). It will help because you can adjust the compression level to a point where the fork doesn't compress with every little bump in the trail. This will allow you to roll obstacles at a lower speed that might ordinarily compress the fork and stop you.
By having some sort of rebound adjustment, you will be able to control how quickly (or slowly) the fork returns to its normal position. As you adjust the return rate, the shock will be able to handle more bumps in a row (if you're going through a technical section of trail) or will sort of cushion back up (if your trails tend to have one obstacle and then level out for a while). This sort of adjustment allows you to tune the fork for thhe type of trail and your own personal riding style.
Will a dampened fork absorb hits at slower speed without stalling the bike?
It can if you set it up like that. More than likely, the reason you're stalling as you hit obstacles at slower speeds is because your fork is compressing, and absorbing all of your forward momentum when you hit the obstacle. A fork with more adjustment can absorb more, but in some cases, since it absorbs less at a slower speed, you carry more momentum when you first hit the obstacle, and the fork compresses after your front wheel lands on the other side of the obstacle.
Will a dampened fork work better for bigger rocks, roots, and logs?
With out a doubt. Having the ability to tune and adjust your fork will allow you to approach larger obstacles and help you clear them. The key to being able to clear bigger obstacles is carrying more momentum. A fork with compressiona and rebound adjustments will help you carry more momentum, and allow you to clear harder challenges.
Hope this helps, and doesn't cloud the waters too much.
Ken |
| The basic answers.. | cruiser
Dec 9, 2003 8:12 AM | | |
| ^^^ No Text in Post Above, Cruiser. | Ken in KC.
Dec 10, 2003 8:04 AM | | Don't know if you intended to reply or not.
Ken |
| If you go for an EXR, just be sure... | bhutata
Dec 9, 2003 9:38 PM | | ...that you get the 'real' EXR and *not* the EXR Comp. The EXR Comp is a completely different fork, commonly used as a cheap OEM fork when they want to put the Marz name on the bike. In reality, the EXR Comp isn't much more than a sturdier pogo stick than what you have right now.
Also, be careful if you're changing the fork travel by much. Each inch increase in travel slackens the head tube angle by about a degree, making it handle a little slower. This is a good thing if you're racing downhill, a bad thing if you're on twisty XC trails. Increasing fork travel also raises the top tube of the frame, increasing frame standover height. |
| Another option for you.... | Ken in KC.
Dec 9, 2003 7:35 AM | | I agree with your approach, especially based on the type of riding that you and your family do.
There is an appreciable difference between an entry level Rock Shox and a Sid, for example. You will certainly notice the difference between a shock that basically pogos as you pedal, and a shock that actually absorbs some of the shock from riding the logs and obstacles. With a better fork, your bike will become more stable as you ride through dips and swoops in the trail. Currently, your shock is compressing as you descend down into a dip. This compression changes your bike's geometry, and ultimately affects your balance.
With all this said, I also appreciate the expense of upgrade not one, but four bikes. It would seem to me that the best option for you would be to pick up used shocks as they come up on ebay or mtbr classifieds. This will allow you to upgrade, whithout taking out a home loan to pay for the upgrade. This also allows you to spread the upgrade costs over a period of time, since you most likely won't find 4 forks that all work for you.
Since you're the one paying for the upgrades, I suggest that you purchase one for yourself, and determine if there is an appreciable difference between your exsisting fork and the upgrade.
Based on the riding style of you and your family, I reccomend some sort of air fork. You will be able to adjust the fork using air pressure to fit your weight and riding style and they are fairly simple.
Hope this helps, and don't forget the most important part of riding: Have fun.
Ken |
| Ken weighs in with typically bad advise | ub cl
Dec 9, 2003 1:20 PM | | considering that many folks unload their suspension forks just before the bushings and seals become toast, buying 4 used forks as silly Ken suggests is a good way to lighten your wallet and incur 4 other riders' problems.
Still think a reliable rigid fork that requires zero servicing is a better value than a problematic suspension fork. Anyone who learned to ride well in the 80s can tell you that rigid forks are fine, everywhere, Moab included. I guess the trails in KC are rougher than that. |
| Man, you're funny... | Ken in KC.
Dec 9, 2003 2:22 PM | | You can't read too well, but funny. I suggest re-reading my advice to Cruiser. It's remarkably different than you suggest.
The trails in KC are more technical than most areas of Moab. Not as much elevation gain, but every bit as technical, if not more so.
Rigid forks are fine. I prefer to ride them. You're advice, on the other hand, isn't fine. A rigid fork doesn't make sense for Cruiser. Simply because you prefer to ride a rigid fork, doesn't mean that riding rigid is the answer for everyone. It almost seems like you're taking the opportunity to let everyone know how retro you are, without any consideration for the person asking for advice.
Of course, that couldn't be it, because you would never go off half cocked with no facts, would you? That would be out of character for you......
You do however bring up a good point. The fork that Cruiser would buy may require a rebuild from your local shop, so you may have to factor in an extra $50 to the cost of the fork. I forgot to mention that.
Most people don't unload a fork to save the cost of a $50 rebuild. It costs too much to replace them. Most people "unload" their forks because they're upgrading or don't like specific characteristics of the fork. There are a number of Sids out there because most people think they're flexy. A "flexy" Sid at the right price would be a significant step up from an RST. |
| Cheap bikes with expensive forks. | Danny
Dec 25, 2003 9:36 PM | | >Two of the bikes are new Giant Rincons (24 spd Altus/Alivio). One is >a new Schwinn 240-DSA (24 spd Acera/Acera). The oldest bike is a CCM >Cliffrunner II (21 spd SIS). I just bought a Cloud Nine ($225 US) >for that one, since the cheap RST spring-over shock that came with >it has lost its spring. With full preload you cannot prevent very >bad bobbing. The Cloud Nine is a Christmas present for my son.
>As far as new bikes go, I have found that unless you spend thousands >of dollars on a single bike, you cannot expect to get a fork that is >well rated. Even bikes costing over $2000 CDN have forks like the >Marzocchi EXR (called a beginner fork by some reviewers), or a >Manitou Axel, also considered inferior by reviewers, or a Rock Shox >fork that is not well rated, like the Judy or Pilot.
Been where you are and there is a heck of a lot more to a decent, tough trail riding bike vs. a department store bike, than the front fork.
For example, I bought the most expensive Mongoose I could find...think it ran me nearly $300 bucks...thought that was a lot of money at the time for a bike. But, it looked real cool with it's full suspension and all the trimmings and goodies. Road OK on the road and light trails...though it bobbed around like crazy on the it's bouncy springs...somewhat like a combination pogo stick/bike. However, the first time I got on a real trail, riding with a buddy who had a real Schwinn, I died...or nearly did.
It seemed impossible to select the correct gear, the chain popped off twice and I would just spin and spin up hills...couldn't climb anything. Downhills were terrifying, the suspension bottomed constantly, the forks twisted, a single bump would follow with a series of undamped bounces.
It took me that one ride, with my buddy cajoling me on..."Come on Danny, you can make it up that hill."...to start doing research. That led me to buy a closeout I-drive which I liked so much I followed with a closeout Avalanche. Amazing difference. The Mongoose was dropped off at the Salvation army within a week.
On my next drive with my buddy, I was still too scared to scream down hills...perhaps there were too many bad memories...but I could crank right by him up them. He'd go screaming down with me overbraking and perched as far back as my arms would allow behind him. I'd meet him about half way up the next hill...huffing and puffing...and trying very hard to keep the distance.
Anyway, my point is I agree with the guy who told you not to drop too much money into an expensive fork for your bikes. Upgrading a bike, piece by piece, is a very expensive proposition...it will generally cost much more than buying a better bike outright. Further, it really doesn't make sense to buy a single component that costs more than the whole darn bike to begin with.
Don't get yourself sucked into the hype of the reviews here. Many are written by riders that are at a considerably higher level than yourself...and definitely, higher than your bikes would ever experience.
If you do decide to "try" a decent fork, there are a pile of them for $100 bucks that would be leaps and bounds better than the crap that is mounted on your bikes. For example, I upgraded my son's bike to a Manitou Axel Comp for $105. Also, I wouldn't, disregard a deal on a used shock....but I wouldn't pay much for one. Many people will upgrade a shock early on...especially a lower end one, the only thing you need to worry about is the fork tube length.
You can get tremendous deals on 1 or 2 year old models...online and at local bike shops. Our local shop has a Cannodale Jeckyl for about $850 (originally $1300.)
I recently bought my other son a new 2002 K2 Flying Monkey for $550. For that price he gets Avid mechanicals, Manitou Black Comp, Deore, and Deore LX components...including Rapid fire shifters. The bike came with heavy 2.2 tires and rims which raise it up close to 33lbs but that is still one heck of a lot better than the 39lb Costco "Vertical" it replaces. I'll probably drop lighter XC tires on it and sell the wheelset on Ebay.
My suggestion, if the urge is strong, buy a single inexpensive, decent shock, and try it out. In the meantime, save your money and keep your eyes peeled for closeout deals on old model bikes.
Danny |
| transcend the madness and the hype | club
Dec 9, 2003 7:05 AM | | go rigid. you'll improve your skills much quicker without mechanical crutches. suspension forks make sense if you're racing on rough terrain against others so equipped. for noncompetitive riding, a quality rigid fork is just fine,despite what the ad-driven ragazines would suggest. I ride 95 percent of the time on full rigid bikes, in SW Colorado, and do just fine. I have no problems keeping up with suspended riders. |
| Dispensing more poor advice.... | Ken in KC.
Dec 9, 2003 7:21 AM | | Suspension forks make sense, period. They help the learning curve, and they allow a newer rider to get in to the sport without the jarring of a rigid fork.
Rigid forks do improve handling and skill level, but a person has to enjoy the ride and learn how to ride obstacles as well. Yes, I know that when you first started, you rode rigid. You may very well ride rigid now. So what? Why should a beginner start off being pounded in to submission? Why shouldn't they take advantage of current technology?
Ken |
| ah, because they can't afford "current technology" x 4? | club
Dec 10, 2003 6:56 AM | | and I don't know anyone who purchased a SID who is happy with it. Major flex, major maintenance issues; that's the last fork I'd recommend for the guy.
"Current technology" is expensive. Better to get out there and ride on rigid forks, than sit at home and fret over the inability to purchase 4 new high-zoot mechanical crutches.
Damned right I ride full rigid, most always. Got 3 suspension forks in a box in the garage because I don't like or need them.
Guess your mountainous ego makes up for the lack of mountains on which to ride. |
| But at least I know the difference between advise and advice.... | Ken in KC.
Dec 10, 2003 7:42 AM | | I know several people who ride Sids. They aren't for everyone, but they are better than an RST or generic no-name fork. So, they would be a step up from what Cruiser is currently riding, and they wouldn't cost that much, given that many people don't like them.
You still can't read very well. I didn't suggest buying 4 upgrades.
Current technology isn't expensive, it's relative. 3 year old "current technology" is considerably cheaper than 2004 "current technology", yet is still a considerable step up from what Cruiser is currently riding.
"Better to get out there and ride on rigid forks, than sit at home and fret over the inability to purchase 4 new high-zoot mechanical crutches. "
You still can't read very well, I suggest that you re-read Cruiser's post.
You have 3 shocks in a box in your garage? Why not give them to Cruiser, since you're not ever going to use them? Someone may as well get some use out of them.
Ken |
| transcend the madness and the hype | cruiser
Dec 9, 2003 8:05 AM | | I was riding on a ridgid fork on a high tensile steel frame, before I got a new bike. I find that the suspension makes for a faster and more enjoyable ride. I still have the old bike and after a few months on the new bike, I took it out for a ride. I do not want to go back to a rigid fork. I found I could negotiate most things, but it was much more jarring and I found I seemed to tire more quickly.
Thanks, but no thanks.
Cruiser |
| I broke a ridid fork doing multiple 2' jumps(nm) | Ben B
Dec 10, 2003 4:57 AM | | get the EXR PRO if you get an exr as the other guy said. Get the fork with damping and you will enjoy mtbing more. I would keep away from rock$hiT as they are not as strong as the marzocchi forks.I know of a guy who broke some psylos.
Damping: an oil system to take the bounce out of bumps and rocks etc.
you will be able to steer alot better with a good forks simply because your front wheel will be on the ground more.
The rebound adjustments are so if you are in a rocky bumpy area you can set it on fast and it will sring back up more quickly so it is ready for the next bump. slow is for going slow where you dont want it to bounce back up to quickly.
Springs : coil are for jumps and drops and air is for lightwieght XC
I have the MZ comp which is an OEM fork used to get the marz brand on some bikes. I compared it to the EXR on the same travel (105mm) on a very very rocky area and they difference was that the EXR was way way smother. I taco'd my front rim on the first day when i went off a table top onto a berm. The wheel took the impact and the fork did not snap like the other cheap forks would have. you could look into something 2nd hand people dont usually sell them because they are worn out but because of upgrades.
any way i hope that helps. |
| Good Observations | WarrGuru
Dec 28, 2003 12:33 PM | | The differences that you noted while going from a rigid fork to suspended forks also holds true as the forks get to be of higher quality.
Qualities such as small bump sensitivity, plush bottomless feeling, better tracking, etc will be realized as you get into the higher quality forks. Comfort and control are increased with better forks.
I'm not going to get involved in the "is it worth it" debate. You decide. It has always been worth it for me. |
| I went from a RST 281 R to a Marz MX Comp (OEM Marz) recently | phil..
Dec 12, 2003 8:14 PM | | Warning: Long and rambling and it drifts off topic, but it's all about my experience from riding low end LBS bike to a Mid level LBS bike (components went from low to mid also).
I purchased my first bike 2.5 yrs ago. I paid $300 for a Schwinn Mesa 2000 schwinn mesa. I was seriously looking at walmart full suspension bikes at the same time, but my girlfriends father recommend checking out a bike in a bike shop first. Well I had ridden a cheapy walmart bike before and when I took my first spin around the LBS parking lot on a $300 bike I was amazed ($300 was alot of money to me at the time, I thought $1000 for a bicycle was insane at the time when I overhead another customer talking to a shop guy about his price range).
Anyways, the LBS was very helpful asking me what I would be using the bike for mostly. At that time I told them I was going to use it to get to class (college). I also told him I wouldn't mind trying trail riding, but I had never done it at the time. He recommended the $300 schwinn with the suspension fork (RST 281R) over the the slightly cheaper models with a rigid fork if I was thinking I might try out trail/mountain biking. Anyways, the bike was great, I was super proud of owning a "nice" bike. One day a friend asks me if I want to join him mountain biking, I say sure why not, and after the first ride I am hooked on mountaing biking.
I'm still in college at the time and I am riding with people on nicer bikes with nicer suspension, but I'm keeping up with them. I start learning more about bikes, I accept the fact that bikes get way more expensive than my own. I go and ride a new trail with a friend and there's a rock step down type move the trail that you have to roll, because of a turn immediately afterwards, but it kinda freaky and neither my friend nor I attempt it. Later on talking to other guys who bike on the trail, we realize it is known locally as "endo rock". Anyways, me and my normal riding buddy go biking with two other guys, me on my 1.5 yr old $300 schwinn, my friend on a $500 Gary fisher Aquila (I think it only had a RS Jett fork), and the other guys were on $1000+ bikes. We kept up with these guys fine, one of the guys was on a full suspension bike and he wouldn't ride "endo rock", the other guy was on a hardtail and he rolled it and it looked pretty smooth and not too difficult. I didn't ride it that day. The next time out with my buddy, I tell him that I think I can ride it, he won't ride it, I roll it and it's no big deal, more of a head game than anything.
I like biking more and more at this time. I get an internship and start making money and want to buy a new bike, but I save it because I need enough money for my last semester of college, want to buy my g/f an engagement ring, and also want to have enough money for a nice honeymoon. Well I save up my money, but the ring, go back to school, have enough to buy for tuition, books, rent, food etc... I start shopping for honeymoon trips, find one for a decent amount of money and then I finally decide to use some of the money in my bank account after all these large purchases to buy the bike I want before I get married (fiance approved of this becuase she knew all along I was saving the money for a bike, but I put the other purchases first).
Well I read and read and read about bikes and suspension on the internet. I was considering a single pivot boutique bikes (titus loco moto, ventana pentara, ellsworth isis, etc..) All these brands were/are boutique to me living in Arkansas. But I really wasn't comfortable buying a bike without test riding. I find some shops that let you test ride bikes on teh trail if you leave a deposit. In my case they charged my CC with their cost for the bike and then credit'd my CC when I returned it a few days later. I think I test rode 4 bikes total: Kona Dawg, Kona Kikapu Deluxe, Spec Stumpjumper FSR, and a Spec Enduro. I ended up liking the Enduro the most and decided to go with the base model for around $1500 and then I would have enough money for a better fork that came on it than the Marz MX Comp that was OEM on it. I thought I'd gput the MX comp on my old schwinn and get maybe a Fox Vanilla R for the front.
Well it's been about 8 months since I bought the Enduro and I haven't bought a new fork for it. Why when I had the money available for a new fork? Because the MX Comp seems way better than the RST 281R. When looking at the two bikes now, the RST seems like it's pretty weakly constructed. The MX Comp has 100mm of travel, versus the 75mm?? of the RST. One of my first times out on the new bike I was riding a portion of the trail faster than I usually do and I drifted towards the outside of a turn and my front wheel was headed straight for a large rock. I braced for what I expected to be an endo, but the fork sucked it up. I was sure that the same situation would have sent me OTB with the RST. The MX Comp has one air leg and one spring/oil leg. I'm really happy with the MX Comp. I know it's not top of the line, and I don't expect it to be. When you are reading reviews you have to consider what the user was expecting out of it and if that is even within reason.
I'm not sure if your bike with the 281R is setup to use a threadless fork steerer. I know that my schwinn had a threaded stem/headset/fork which means more cost than the fork by itself.
My thoughts on riding a $1500 bike versus $300:
1) 95% rider, 5% equipment.
2) I enjoy the new bike, it's given me confidence to rider more techincal terrain, but now that I can ride it on my $1500 FS bike, I bet I could ride it on a $300 hardtail too.
3) The size and geometry of my old bike wasn't too mountain biking friendly (it was more upright positioning).
4) The FS bike versus the hardtail is great on rocky climbs, I can just stay seated and power up the hill, and not worry as much about my rear wheel skipping around.
5) I'd like to build up a rigid bike just to ride on the trail occasionally, even though I have a decent FS in the garage, I'd like to try it for the challenge (maybe even a rigid SS).
6) I haven't ridden the schwinn on a trail since I bought the new bike, but I ride about as often.
I know this isn't a direct answer above so: I did notice a difference in damping. A 2-3 foot dropped bottomed out my RST 281 R. I like the adjustability of an air fork. If your forks are 80mm now, I don't think I would put a 120mm travel fork on there, it would change the geometry quite a bit. I might try and look for new/used bikes that offer better components and better forks if you can afford it, rather than putting a $500 fork on a $300 bike. With a better fork, you'll probably ride harder/faster, and I could see damaging rims since they are probably only single wall if the bikes are sub $500 bikes.
Any chance you can ride a bike on a trail you ride often with a nice suspension fork like you are considering? I would definetely do that before you make a $2000 investment.
good luck. |
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