|   Grimeca System 8 HOW DO YOU BLEED THEM? | mik
Sep 25, 2001 10:10 AM | | |
| Here's how I do it. | SuperCruz
Sep 25, 2001 1:28 PM | | I have tried a few different methods.
1. Remove the resevoir cap, put a hose on the bleed port, open the bleed port, keep pouring in brake fluid until no bubbles come out of the hose. Close the bleed port, pump the brake lever, quickly open/close the bleed port to pressure bleed the system as you would a car's brake system.
2. This way is MESSY! Swing your shifter out of harms way, remove the resevoir cap, fill a large syringe with brake fluid. Attach the syringe to the bleed port after removing the air from the syringe and tube. Place a bucket/rag on the floor under the brake lever. Open the bleed port and inject the brake fluid to push all the air trapped in the line up through the brake resevoir. When you think all the air is out, pressure bleed like in number 1.
With both methods, but especially method 2, don't forget to completly clean off all spilled brake fluid. I do this by removing the entire brake assembly, and taking it to the kitchen sink and scrubbing it with a tooth brush and dishwashing liquid.
Good luck. |
| re: Grimeca System 8 HOW DO YOU BLEED THEM? | VueltaUSA
Sep 25, 2001 2:28 PM | | Try the Vuelta USA bleeding kit. Very easy, very clean and cheap. You can order at www.trident-sports-usa.com
It makes it so easy... |
| Here is how I did it on my XTs | BH
Sep 25, 2001 4:00 PM | | Excuse my ignorance, but do you understand exactly what you are trying to do? Brake bleeding is the process of removing all (emphasis on ALL) of the air from the brake lines leaving only the brake fluid. Any air left in the system needs to be compressed before the lever movement will move the pads. Enough air will mean that the pads never move to stop your bike.
Before you do anything, make sure that your hoses are tightly attached.
Air is lighter than the brake fluid so dips or sags in the line can cause air to get trapped at a high point. During bleeding, your job will be greatly simplified if the hose slopes down to the caliper all the way down the run without any high points that can trap air. This usually isn't a problem for the front brake but it can be on the rear (it was on my bike). You may want to raise your front wheel and leave the hose unattached to the flame. This will allow air bubbles to flow back to the reservoir on their own. Once you are done bleeding and all the air is out, dips and sags in the line are OK because all the air is out of the system. As long as you don't let the reservoir run dry, loosen any fittings or flip the bike over air can't run travel back down the line.
Attach a small piece of clear hose to the brake caliper bleeding fitting.
Fill the reservoir with as much as it will hold. During the bleeding process, never (emphasis on NEVER) let it run dry or you will have to start over. Use only clean fluid in the reservoir that has been sitting for a while so any bubbles have floated to the surface and popped.
Open the bleeder about 1/6 of a turn, slowly squeeze the lever all the way, close the bleeder and release the lever. Do these 4 steps over and over but watch the fluid level in the reservoir and refill it (after step 4 and before step 1) when it gets more than 1/2 of the way down.
When you begin to see fluid in the clear hose that you attached to the bleeder fitting, you are almost done. Now you need to be extra careful that you don't spill any fluid on the pads or the rotor. If you do, immediately wipe it off.
Depending on how long your clear plastic hose is, you may get 3 to 4 lever pumps before its full. To empty it, with the bleeder closed lower the open end into a clean bottle (I cut a beer can in half and wash and dry it out) and pull the end off the bleeder and let it run in. Next, wipe off the drippage and reattach the hose.
Let the bike sit, go have a beer and let the bubbles migrate up to the reservoir.
When you get back to it fill the reservoir. At this point, you want to only crack the bleeder when you open it.
Continue the 4 steps, with the bleeder slightly cracked until you see no bubbles coming out of the bleeder into the clear hose. Once all the bubbles are gone and the lever is stiff, you are done.
When you are all done, clean the rotor with a good brake cleaner, wipe them dry and don't touch them with your bare hands and if you spilled any fluid on the pads, boil them in hot water. |
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