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MountainBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - Brake Time
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Formula Disc brake drag, how to adjust properly (7 posts)
|  Formula Disc brake drag, how to adjust properly | AlienInv8r Jan 10, 2002 2:09 PM | | I just got the Formula Activa cable disc from jenson, figured for $25 it was worth a try. Only problem is that it came without the directions. I have it installed and everything, except it drags when the wheel spins. I tried to adjust the pad position, and I can almost get it clear, but then if I widen the distance between the pads and the disc, it loses like all the power. It doesnt start catching till my brake lever is at the handle bar. Is there someway to fix this that I am missing? or should I just expect that to be the norm the brake? It's not enough to slow me down or anything, but I know it should be running freely. Thanks. |
|  one more thing... | AlienInv8r Jan 10, 2002 2:22 PM | | Also, this is my first disc brake, so I had V's before. What do I do with the screw in my shock for the V's?? It looks like there's two missile shooting out of my fork now, and it's kinda goofy. I just figured there was something you usually do to put in there instead of the v-brake screw. Thanks again |
|  You can............... | Mike T.® Jan 10, 2002 3:17 PM | | ....download the whole Activa manual if you go here -
www.formula-brake.com/
You will need Adobe Acrobat reader to read it.
Check the setup as per the instructions and see if this helps. If not, page their importer (to N.America) Thorsten at formula@khsbicycleparts.com
On some forks the dorky brake pivots can be unscrewed and left out. I put alum bolts in mine. Check the instructions with the fork to make sure the pivots don't hold the arch to the fork.
Mike T. (mcm #717) |
|  Having the same problem | James Jan 10, 2002 9:34 PM | | I've just installed a new set of activas as well and am having the same problem. After fiddling with the adjustment (according to the manual) all I can guess is that one of the pads has to drag lightly on the rotor for the brake to work at maximum power. Don't know if I'm totally off on this? |
|  V-brake studs... | fd Jan 11, 2002 6:49 AM | | Make sure you can unscrew them without messing up the fork. Now you have two holes for crud to get into. Fill them up with wax if you think you might want to reverse the process, or a p-tex ski repair candle if you don't. Other choice is short metric screws but hard to find short enough ones - can cut down with dremel. |
|  re: here...at work | Brakemeister Jan 11, 2002 7:22 AM | | Hi
well for that deal Jenson should know all the details... lol
.
Ok the Activa is floating on the carrier. You have 2 adjustment nuts. One is to adjust for pad wear, thats the silver know from the outside of the caliper. The other one is black and adjust the floating of the whole caliper, this one is close to the spokes.
Now you mount the brake . Than you adjust the silver knob so there is only very little room between pads and rotor, but no drag.
If you have drag on one of the pads, adjust the black floating adjuster back and forth respectively.
After all this is done and NOT before, you hang the cable into to brake, just barely not having any slop, but the actuation arm is almost relaxed.
Than these brakes have metal sintered pads, well the production ones, I have no idea about the Jenson pieces. In any case they need a good break in before they work good.
Thorsten |
|  Thanks | AlienInv8r Jan 11, 2002 12:02 PM | | Hey,
Thanks for the help, that part about hanging the cable on afterwards made a difference. I think before I had the actuation arm already pulled up a bit. There's still some drag, but it's not enough to slow me down really, and I figure with break-in that it'll hopefully go away. But I readjusted in the order you told me and it seems to be working better now. Thanks for the help! |
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