|   Hayes Front rebuild help. | Pete-NJ
Jan 13, 2002 2:24 PM | | Hey Guys,
I need to repair my front Hayes DH (8" Rotor) brake system and I don't know where to begin. I had a crash a month ago which tore the brake hose from the lever and all of the fluid was loss. I have now just recently had the funds to repair it and I have no idea what I need to do. Someone told me that I would be able to reuse the hose? What parts do I need? Im starting to think I should take the bike to a shop and have it done but I like doing things myself. I consider myself a fairly competent wrench ( built 3 bikes from scratch ) but i have NO experience with hydraulic things and I dont wanna mess anything up. Suggestions? Thanks |
| re: Hayes Front rebuild help. | Pepito
Jan 13, 2002 5:27 PM | | You will need a compression ring, a bleed kit, dot 4 fluid...
first, remove the black ruber end of the lever, unscrew the
compression screw and remove the hose...(pull and turn)
...cut the hose where it's thor, put a new compression
ring on the hose end. Install the hose on the lever (only
push and turn, it should be easy), screw the compression
screw (with the compression ring in "par defaut").
Now you just have to bleed the system, got to www.hayesbrake.com
for bleeding instruction.
hope that help,
reply if you need more info,
Philippe from Quebec. |
| http://www.hayesdiscbrake.com/ | Mr Blur
Jan 13, 2002 5:44 PM | | Hayesdiscbrake.com details the procedure for hose replacement and more! Hayes small parts are readily available at your LBS or mailorder shops. The bleedkits a bit expensive for $25.00, you can try to improvise by going to your Local Hardware store)
Let us know how your repair turned out!
Mr Blur (After squirting brake fluid in my eyes, everything is a Blur to me, but alas, The Blur will be out this summer) lol.
Service
Step 5 1. Remove the wheel/disc and brake pads so that spilled fluid does not contaminate the disc or pads.
2. Position the bike in a stand so that the brake caliper bleeder is perpendicular to the ground, and so that the bleed screw on the master cylinder is the highest point on the brake system. This can be done by rotating the master cylinder on the handlebars and the turning the handlebars. The hose end of the master cylinder should point down at a 45 degree angle.
3. Remove the master cylinder bleed screw.
4. Prepare an old bottle and a hose to catch the brake fluid to be drained from the caliper.
Hint: Taping a spoke to a bottle and bending it into a hook makes a convenient hanger.
5. Stick one end of the hose in the bottle and the other end onto the caliper bleeder.
6. Open up the bleeder 1/2 turn, and let the fluid drain into the bottle.
7. Squeeze the lever a couple of times. Keep pumping until no more fluid drains out.
8. When the system is drained of fluid, close the bleeder and replace the hose.
9. Re-bleed the system with new DOT 4 OR DOT 3 brake fluid.
Step 5 F. Hose Removal and Replacement
1. Drain the fluid as described above.
2. To take the hose off of the master cylinder end, slide the hose support down the tube. Remove the hose nut by loosening the nut with a 10mm end wrench, and sliding the nut all the way down the hose.
3. Slide the hose off the end of the master cylinder - a twisting motion helps remove the hose. There will be some residual fluid in the hose and master cylinder pointing straight up. Be careful to avoid spilling that fluid.
4. A new compression bushing will be needed each time the hose is re-installed. Remove the old compression by cutting the hose next to the compression bushing. The cut needs to be clean, with no fraying ends.
Note: Check hose length for adequate travel. If too short, replace hose.
5. Assemble the parts in the order of: The hose support; the hose nut; and the compression sleeve.
6. Slide the end of the hose over the barb on the end of the master cylinder and push it all the way to the end.
7. Push the compression sleeve all the way to the end of the cartridge or banjo.
8. Thread on the nut - using a 10 mm wrench to tighten this hose nut. Use a crow's foot and a torque wrench to get to the final torque of 40 in-lbs plus one full rotation. If the nut is not tight enough it won't seal, and you will have a leak in your system.
9. Bleed the system.
G. Caliper Repair |
| |
