|  03 b4 sl bleed questions | bad-brad Nov 20, 2002 3:39 PM | | ok, so i goofed at my first attempt to bleed the brakes after cutting the line shorter, i forgot to release the lever before i disconnected the syringe, and blammo, air in the line. well, i've repeated the bleed process several times and the brake feels pretty good but the membrane in the pump body seems 40% full of air. do i just need to keep repeating the bleed process? i purchased a bleed kit from thor the other day and have pulled quite a bit of air out, but my other question is after i have pulled out as much air as possible during the bleed process, do i have to totally disconnect the syringe/connector and replace the o-ring and grub screw, check the brake by pulling the lever a few times and repeat the process (remove grub screw and o-ring, and reattach syring/connector, etc).
thanx for any help
brad |
|  Just try................. | Mike T. Nov 20, 2002 3:56 PM | | .....tipping the lever body upright, removing the plastic Torx plug next to the reservoir and dripping fluid into the hole. This should get rid of most of the air in the reservoir.
Did you get the new 2-syringe bleed kit? If so, screw the long brass bleed fitting into the Torx hole and suck bubbles out of the reservoir. This will collapse the membrane so don't go ape-sh!t. Then push fluid back into the reservoir, remove the syringe and fitting and drip fluid into the hole again.
Replace the Torx plug carefully. Operate the brake. If it's squishy then you need a full 2-syringe bleed all over again. Push-pull the fluid through that brake 3-10x. You'll be glad you did.
I'm a firm believer in getting the rotors and the pads as far away from a bleed job as possible. Remove 'em! |
|  Just try................. | tapengl Nov 20, 2002 11:03 PM | | Hi Mike,
Just got my B4 SL installed. cut the line and use the coupling kit come with the brakes.
I use the syringe to suck out air from the grub screw hole.
When I put the grub screw back I push the membrane slightly so that
the fluid get pushed out of the hole a bit. Then I place the o-ring
and the grub screw right in the fluid to avoid trapped air.
I am still not too sure how each components work, so here are
some of questions.
1. How full the membrane should be with lever released and all
screws in place.
2. does the small quantity of air in the membrane affect braking ?
3. I felt the rear brake are a tiny bit mushier than
the front. Is it normal, trapped air or longer line ?
4. what is full 2-syringe bleed ?
5. Is there a way to make the braking engage earlier ?
I mean to make the pad closer to the disk when level is released.
Thanks
Tapeng |
|  Tapeng................. | Mike T. Nov 21, 2002 6:01 AM | | ......I will e-mail you a LONG answer. |
|  tapengl, could you forward that ..... and thanks mikeT | bad-brad Nov 21, 2002 8:15 AM | | long answer from mike t to me? those are all good questions and since i know just a little about the system, i would like to know all i can.
thanks
brad
wwbd75@hotmail.com |
|  tapengl, could you forward that ..... and thanks mikeT | tapengl Nov 21, 2002 6:12 PM | | Just sent you Mike's instruction.
I am waiting for the 2-syringe kit.
Tapeng |
|  Just got my b4's, post it Mike!!!! | FreakRider Nov 21, 2002 12:19 PM | | Please!!!!!! |
|  Juss............... | Mike T. Nov 21, 2002 12:33 PM | | ....click "Reply" to my post, click my name and you'll see my eee-addy. E-me and I'll eee you a big long mail.
Mike Tea. |
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