|   Help with Broken Hayes Mechs (Pics incl for help) | TM
Mar 29, 2003 1:34 PM | | OK - I dont know if anyone can help but:
I just replaced the right hand (Non cable pulling side) side of my rear mech disk brake. And now the cable pulling side is not working what so ever. There is great resistance from the internal spring (?).
* Currently there is no space for the disk to fit between.
Any help would be great. LBS not open till Monday = No ride this weekend (tears)
OK PICS: To assit:
This is the side I replaced:
This is the cable pull side that doesnt seem to be working:
.jpg)
And finally the pads: Zero Clearance for disk (Sorry for the poor image)
* Take note: I twised the pad contact adjuster to give max clearance |
| re: Help with Broken Hayes Mechs (Pics incl for help) | Sigmund
Mar 29, 2003 2:12 PM | | Best thing would be to disassemble & reassemble again. If you replaced part of the caliper yourslef, that should not be a problem. |
| re: Help with Broken Hayes Mechs (Pics incl for help) | TM
Mar 29, 2003 2:24 PM | | Any idea where I can get instructions on stripping the cable pull side apart to check out the internals???? |
| I had this problem when I took apart my Hayes mechs. | Ryan C.
Mar 30, 2003 7:25 PM | | And I managed to fix it after fiddling with it for a while. What you have done is pushed the piston (I'll call it the piston even though its not a hydro) out of its bore. When you disassemble the caliper, you have to rotate the torque arm (where the cable attaches to) the opposite direction it is pulled by the cable to reach one of the caliper bolts that fasten the two halves of the caliper together. When you do this, it pushes the piston out as far as it can go, and it usually gets hung up on the outside edges of the bore. There is a small rubber seal that surrounds the piston at this point, and its easy to unseat the piston during disassembly. The fix? First remove the pads. I basically rotated the torque arm all the way in the opposite direction (clockwise) and then counter-clockwise. The piston will begin to pop out again when you rotate the torque arm counter-clockwise. At this point, use a tire lever or something else that is not metal to push the piston back in as you rotate it all the way back counter-clockwise. It might take a few tries, but eventually it should go back in. Give this a try and see if it works. Yeah, these brakes are b!tch to work on, eh? Good luck.
-Ryan |
| Thank you for that | TM
Mar 30, 2003 8:44 PM | | Did that originally got it right then it popped out and I was back to square one. Well you never guess what I did! Totally stip the unit down took all the bearings out and reassemblled it. That sure fixed it. Brought it down to my LBS and they checked that the tension was right.
Again thanks for the help, it was nice to strip the unit fully tho, sorta a learning experiance! |
| Don't worry too much... | Schtoo
Apr 3, 2003 10:10 PM | | The Hayes are a little fiddly, but they are dead simple compared to others. Nice, simple and they work (not well enough for me however).
Try tearing down a Deore 515 one day. That thing has soooo many moving parts I thought it was a diesel fuel injection pump...
I don't know what the Avid is like, but from the sounds it's one of them 'end user should not disassemble' things.
What I do with the Hayes is before bolting the fixed side in, make sure the piston is in the right spot. Made easy by a little dimple (witness mark) in the caliper housing and on the piston. Line them up and push it in. Don't let it move while you bolt the other side on, then put the lever/cam back on and yer done. Once you get them down pat, they are stupid easy to work on. They just fool you the first few times.
P.S. Try Slick honey on the bearing surfaces and thrust race. Makes a huge difference! |
| |
