Product Reviews | Trail Reviews | Classifieds | Hotlinks | Forums | Races & Events | Gallery | Hot Deals
Home | Forums


MountainBikeReview.com's Forum Archives - Downhill - Freeride


Archive Home >> Downhill - Freeride(1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 )


Azonic 454's(4 posts)

Azonic 454'sMtb_nems
Jan 29, 2002 10:00 AM
Does anyone have install directions for Azonic 454 cranks? bought them and not sure of the sequence everything goes together...ie spacers and washer, spider. or where I might find some, Azonics site is useless.
okay here goes.....bru
Jan 29, 2002 2:48 PM
This may be a little long since these can be tricky to set up. I am not sure what spacers come with these since I have tossed some of the original spacers in the trash (the ones that only slide over the smaller diameter at the splines).

1: Install drive-side cup and tighten (grease threads)

2: Insert axle through bearings in installed drive-side cup.

3: From non-drive side, slide long axle spacer over axle.

4: Slide non-drive cup over axle and thread it into the frame

5: IMPORTANT: Tighten cup enough so that when the axle is removed, the spacer stays in place. The bearings should spin as smoothly as they did when they weren't installed yet. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN!

6: While holding the cup in place (so it doesn't turn), tighten the lockring down tight.

7: Install ring on spider and spider onto crank but leave the bolt that attaches the spider to the crank loose.

8: Guess and test with various amounts and thicknesses of spacers on the drive-side (between the bearings and the spider) until the chainline is where you want it.

9: Install enough spacers on the non-drive-side so that your cranks are equally spaced in the bb-shell

10: Install the cranks onto the lightly greased spindle with the pinch bolts loose.

11: Install the end bolts and tighten them down tight.

12: Tighten the pinch bolts and spider bolt tight.

TA-DA, you're done!

A caliper and calculator makes the install much easier/precise when it comes to setting up the chainline (to the center of the cassette) and crank spacing (equal left and right spacing). If you want the bearings to last a lot longer go to a machine shop and turn the center spacer down by the thickness of a bearing. Then throw a second bearing into the non-drive cup and you won't have to replace bearings as often.
thank youkarpieldisco
Jan 29, 2002 9:40 PM
i am glad you beat me too it. the cranks are a pain to set up but they work very wel. Just a word to the wise. they will not work in a yakima ankle biter.. I found out too late...
okay here goes.....ThanksMtb_nems
Jan 30, 2002 7:13 AM
Thanks this should help.
 


 MtbREVIEW.com  RoadbikeREVIEW.com  OutdoorREVIEW.com
 PhotographyREVIEW.com  VideogameREVIEW.com  ComputingREVIEW.com
 AudioREVIEW.com  CarREVIEW.com  GolfREVIEW.com
Copyright ©1996-2008 All Rights Reserved.ConsumerREVIEW.com, a division of E-centives, Inc.