|   01 Shiver | Sputnik
Jan 21, 2004 8:15 PM | | I need as much dirt and info and random tidbits you guys know about the 01 Shiver i might be getting them really soon so id like to know everything. dont give me crap about flexing. i wanna know about the internals mostly(do you have to bleed air every once in a while?) and what about the trick where you lower the oil weight but raise the oil level?? dose that affect anything? i'd luv ur help because im sure the new posts wont help me atol |
| OK, you want the whole story? | sub6
Jan 22, 2004 12:20 AM | | I have a 2003. The '02/'03/'04 are identical save for the stickers. The '01s have some minor differences.
They're not flexy to any real extent.
The 2001 is the "worst" year for the Shivers, only b/c they have the pre-HSCV cartridge, which debuted in 2002. I have several pre-2002 cartridge Marzocchi's and I cannot tell the difference between them. If there is ANY difference, it's that you can get a bit of compression spiking with the pre-02's but like I said, I've never noticed it.
Also the first few 2001's don't have holes tapped for stanchion guards, you have to drill/tap your own holes in the dropouts. Most of the 2001s have them though.
The final difference with the 2001s is that I'm pretty sure they don't have the air burp screws in the top cap, you have to actually unscrew the top cap to release air.
As for tuning:
Lowering oil height will make the fork less progressive and it will bottom easier; raising oil height will make it hard to bottom. I do my oil at 80mm from the top of the upper tube/65mm from top of stanchion (springs out) as a starting point, raise oil in 5mm increments 'til it gets to where you like it.
Oil weight is completely unrelated, it only affects the compression and rebound speed - 10wt oil will have more compression damping and the rebound can be made much slower than 7.5 (stock) or 5wt. Personally, I wouldn't use 10wt oil unless you're running Extra Heavy springs in it.
I run my stem really loose on the handlebar so when I crash, the fork won't twist all over the place when I spin the bars back. Either do that, or run the Integrated stem.
Yeah, you have to burp air out of 'em once in a while. I don't do it much, probably no more often than once ever 7 or 8 rides, but some people do it after every ride. No big deal, it takes all of one minute. Less, if you have an '02 or '03, more like 10 seconds, since they have the burp screw in the top caps.
The only downsides to the fork are: you can't run it on a bike with a huge headtube, even with the drop crown. My total stack height is 171 or 172mm and I can only run a Maxxis 2.7 with the fork ALL the way out (and it'll buzz on bottom-out). A slightly worn Mich. 2.8 can also fit but not a new one. If I want to use a fender, max tire is 2.5. It would be nice if they had a deeper drop crown for it. Also there's the twisting issue, it tends to get knocked out of alignment in crashes. No different than ANY other inverted fork, but it's a bit of a pain sometimes. |
| You can fit a Michelin 2.8 | cantin03
Jan 22, 2004 11:40 AM | | with the lower crown close to the tapered part(max height), you can fit a brand new michelin 2.8 without buzz. Adding a fender do not seems to be a problem either. I have a 137mm headtube + 25mm headset and the drop upper crown. |
| My ht stack is too long unfortunately.... | sub6
Jan 22, 2004 1:20 PM | | Actually the problem is that it's a 1.5 head tube, and in order to make the drop crown not hit the sides of the headset, I need some spacers in there, which makes it too long. (130mm HT, 38mm headset, ~5mm of spacers)
I can run a new 2.8 but the upper crown ends up not contacting as much of the upper tubes as I'd like, it's not really a big deal though. I'm getting the E.13 zero-stack headset cups for it as soon as I can, that'll take care of all my problems.
Marz. has stated that a 3.0 will not fit; you'd have to raise the lower crown too far above the line (which is a pretty hard line to see, imho).... |
| |
