|   Anybody ever used old school Wienman Center Pull brakes? | 8bikes1bedroom
Feb 18, 2002 11:23 AM | | Building up a Reynolds 501 city bike, and need brakes. Got these on ebay, but not sure if they're worth using. Dual pivot stuff is pretty pricey for a beater. Not sure what to do, and advice appreciated. Will be using 3x8 Acera X STI v-levers so cable pull length is not an issue on the 700C wheeler. Thanks - Scott |
| re: Anybody ever used old school Wienman Center Pull brakes? | meloh1
Feb 18, 2002 1:44 PM | | Those are pretty standard '70's issue brakes. Will they work? Sure. Are they as good as today's brakes? Nope. I don't know your frame and fork but this type may or may not work depending on mounting configuration and reach. I'm guessing you have an older frame and fork that use a one hole mount. If that's the case you'll have to make sure the reach is correct. You have some, but not alot, of adjustment with the brake pads. Set up can be a pain and they may squeal and shudder if not set up properly. However, if they fit they will stop your bike and probably work ok for a city bike. |
| Very similar brakes, yes | Seb
Feb 18, 2002 3:10 PM | | I grew up riding "ten speed" bikes (touring bikes, actually) with brakes like that. DiaCompe was the brand I alsways saw, on various low to mid level bikes, but they were functionally identical to the ones you have. The last set I had was on a old ass Nishiki touring bike I used for commuting. With good tires (conti pro tourers), I could pull controlled end-ups- easier than on my MTB, actually (then again, my MTB is set up to NOT endo). That was with textured steel rims, not aluminum, to boot. Stopped me very fast and scared the shit outta pedestrians, which was handy when they were what was making me stop.
Those brakes look pretty solid. You can probably get good service if you sand the pads a bit to soften them up. They work kinda like cantileverts- the shorter the "arch wire", the higher the pressure. You can't adjust thge length, but the ones you have look OK- one of the wires looks longer than I'd want, but that one can go on the back brake if it is not already. Mine were never noisy, and I don't recall adjusting them being all that hard (or nescessary). On brakes like that, its an acceptable cheat to do fine adjustments by bending the arms with a big set of pliers, IMO. |
| toe-in and centering | club
Feb 19, 2002 11:16 AM | | yup, toe 'em in with a 6" crescent on the arms where the pads attach, bend away. centering is fun, use a hammer on a screwdriver as a punch, on the brace, tap one side to move that side pad closer. |
| don't use V levers use cantis levers | baker
Feb 18, 2002 5:39 PM | | they are maded to work with very short pull levers, so like for something like 11mm of pull, and no more then 17mm of pull. If you get 11mm levers works best easy at the lever btw. But what is cool is you can mount V pads on them, but one thing to look out for is that one bolt that holds them, may or will break because V pads really adds the stopping power, and it's then gets loaded to this one little bolt. I think you can get this upgraded btw, go to a real good road bike shop. Oh, if you add V pads you can trim them down. |
| got several bikes with centerpulls | club
Feb 19, 2002 11:11 AM | | a dirt road fixer and a crosser, both from old (like 70s) Schwinns built for 27 inch wheels. So when you run 700Cs you get more clearance for fenders and/or fatties. but the rims are smaller, so old centerpulls with lots of pad height adjustment usually work for converting. the other alternative, a sidepull with real long arches, usually has even less power than a centerpull, think of a bmx sidepull. I've got Weinmanns, both with the original levers. the cool score for you would be headset and seat bolt hangers (you need cable stops, just like with cantis) with built in quick release flippers, try loosescrews.com or frames in your local dump.
The really cool centerpulls to have are old Mafac Racers, grab 'em if you ever see 'em; I scored a set off a frame in my LBS's dumpster. |
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