|   Hardtail for a Clyde? | Sheedy
Jun 15, 2002 11:16 PM | | I'm using a Trek 4900.I"m looking at getting an up-grade.
Does anyone know what type of bike I should buy?I ride mainly XC.I need something that is strong and durable to support my 100KG's.
I really appreciate your input. |
| need a little more info | Black_Jack
Jun 16, 2002 1:04 PM | | What is wrong with your current hardtail? Why do you want to upgrade to another hardtail? Is your Trek Chromoly and you want Alu or Ti? Do you want a bike with better components? What are you expecting from the new hardtail that the Trek can't deliver? |
| extra info | Sheedy
Jun 16, 2002 1:38 PM | | Thanks for the reply.I think I need a bike with different geometry(longer top tube) to ride at a better level.I've been very happy with my Trek but I was wondering about its frame being unbutted.Does this mean it is weaker as well as heavier than most decent frames out there? For me weight isn't the issue(afterall it is easier for me to shred a few pounds than my bike!)the thinhg that concerns me is the strength and durability of the frame.
Thanks. |
| extra info | JBurton
Jun 16, 2002 3:47 PM | | I believe that frame is Aluminum, correct? No, an unbutted frame is not necessarily weaker than a butted one. A butted one has the same amount of material at the joints as an un-butted frame, but less in areas where strength isn't a factor such as in the middle of the downtube. Now, a butted and SHAPED tubed frame might be a bit stiffer and more durable than your current frame, I don't know as I am not entirely familiar with the 4900.
As far as longer top tubes, the Specialized model line usually has longer top tubes than most, so check out the Rockhopper and Stumpjumper. Although the new version of the entry level Hard Rock looks bombproof, I am not a big fan of the new design. It looks a bit cheap to me and rides even cheaper (very harsh).
Another option, if you are concerned with durability, is to look at a steel frame. There are quite a few out there that are butted and shaped, the Gunnar Rock Hound and Bianchi (Grizzly, I believe), for instance. I ride a steel framed hardtail and wouldn't trade it for anything, though some are of the opinion that steel's ride quality is muted and thus unwarranted when used in a mountain bike. My opinion differs. I believe that my bike has the best "feel" of any other hardtail I have ridden. |
| here is some more advice | Hammer_FLMB
Jun 17, 2002 10:32 AM | | I'm 6'2" and 200+ pounds and ride a Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo frame w/ Genesis geometry. The Genesis geometry incorporates a longer top tube and provides a less cramped feeling. The fork that was on the bike was pure crap (Manitou Magnum R) so I put on an old 4" travel Jr.T that I had laying around, and I really like the set-up now (I have also put my old 8 speed Gripshift shifters and XT drivetrain on it). It is a fine frame but it may be no better than any other hardtail, I can't judge the others since I've only ridden mine.
For normal XC riding, any new brand name aluminum frame will be fine from a durability standpoint. Since fit is the main issue, my advice would be to go and test ride as many different brands with different set-ups (riser bars, straight bars, different stem lengths, different size frames, etc.).
One other important thing is to make sure you have your fork set-up with the correct spring rate for your weight. Don't let the bike shop tell you that the fork is fine the way it is (unless it is 100% air), b/c most shocks come set-up for 165-180 lb. riders. I also would recommend a Marzocchi coil/oil shock with heavy duty springs, again I'm biased but these forks have worked great for me. |
| here is some more advice | ncj01
Jun 17, 2002 11:10 AM | | i raced a fisher supercaliber hardtail in the clysdale class for 2 yrs, perfect, not problem. Fisher pioneered the long top tube. Its the "shee-It." |
| Thanks | Sheedy
Jun 17, 2002 1:45 PM | | Hey guys,
I appreciate the input.I'll check out your advice. |
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