|   what if I use mtb frame to ride on-road? | Polar
Jul 14, 2002 12:15 AM | | Can any one give me a suggestion,if I use mtb hardtail frame to ride on-road using road bike component and 700c wheelset.Dose the geometry really matter? |
| You can but.... | cf680c2f
Jul 14, 2002 3:15 AM | | The geometry issue can be argued either way. It'll come down to your personal preferences. At best you'll end up with a compromise.
The 700c wheel issue is do-able with disk brakes. Canti/v-brake pads will not line up with a road wheel on a MTB frame without special brake post adapters (I've seen a prototype adapter, but not sure if it ever made it to production)
Road bike componets can be used with a few exceptions. IF your frame uses a 73mm bb shell, you may have to do some creative crank/bb or chainring setups to get the gearing you want and the rear hub may need to be respaced depending on the current frame spacing and the material it's made of. |
| You mean like this thing o' mine... | DeeEight
Jul 14, 2002 4:43 AM | | its a MountainBik carbon fiber monocoque frame built up as my
UglyProject road training bike. All MTB parts actually except for an
RX100 front hub and the Specialized 26x1.0 size UmmaGumma compound
Turbo/S tires (245g each).
I run a single ActionTec 56T Titanium ring (its an old DH size) with a
Real 11-28 8speed race cogset (three largest cogs are aluminium),
Suntour Expert 8speed thumbshifter, Suntour XC-Comp rear derailleur,
Deore rear hub, Sachs PC51 chain, Sun rims (CR17A TCC front and 0XC
rear), DX V-brakes and levers (ok, those are BMX parts), Bebop pedals,
King aheadset, Specialized Ti stem, Scott AT-3 LF bar, OffTheFront bar
tape (ok, that's a road part too), Flite Ti saddle, Ballistic Ti post,
KMR Cycles Ti BB and crankset, DT spokes & alloy nipples.
All together its 19.9 Ibs and it does haul quite nicely on pavement.
I'm quite able to ride with people on actual fancy $2000 road bikes
without any difficulty as my upper/lower gear extremes are about equal
to a 42/52 and 12-23 geared road bike with 700Cx23 wheels. On a 50km
ride the other morning I only got dropped at the top of one hill
because I had to stop to retighten a loose crankarm and I didn't rush
to do it. On the other side of the hill is a 2 minute descent so its
hard to make up lost distance when the other rides are doing 60kph down the hill as I'm fixing my bike. I did actually beat them back to
town later though after overtaking later in the course of the ride.
Oh btw, you can't run 700C wheels on MTB frames/forks as the rim
diameters are different, the brakes wouldn't be in the same positions,
unless you went with discs. |
| geez man... | æon
Jul 14, 2002 11:20 PM | | You gotta stop posting that thing, it hurts my eyes!
The only thing close to that ugly I've seen in a while is the guy who built up the ti frame with drop bars and bright green bottle holders... |
| re: what if I use mtb frame to ride on-road? | CSB
Jul 14, 2002 4:41 PM | | You can do it (I did) but there will be some compromises. You don't need 700c wheels, all you need to do is to run a slightly higher gear to compensate (as in the post above) which means a larger chainring, as an 11 tooth is about the smallest rear cog available. You can find large chainrings in 110 mm spacing, but they will be easier to find in 130 mm (Shimano road). You may run into problems with the front shifting as a MTB derailleur (except perhaps XTR) will have problems with a triple setup with a 50+ tooth large chainring and a MTB shifter will not index properly with a road bike derailleur AFAIK. You could probably get away with a double ring setup like 38-54 with a MTB derailleur but you will have to try it to see.
If you are in a more upright position typical of a MTB, then you will be slower overall as your speed becomes increasingly limited by wind resistance.
I don't imagine that you would be buying a new gruppo for this - it's more practical when you have the spare parts around. Otherwise, why not get a road bike? |
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