|   Paging næstep & Henry Dorset Case- a few more ?'s | Festively Plump
Jan 23, 2003 1:28 PM | | Hey guys! First off thanks ALOT for the info! Those pictures alone have helped me understand the Rohloff alittle better. I have a few more questions that if either one of you could answer would really help me decide on this hub:
First Question (vague) Is it XC'able? By that I mean will it feel like I'm dragging my bike behind me. One person told me it is like pulling a BOB Trailer all the time. I'm no gram counter, and the benefits I think Rohloff can provide seem to be worth the weight. I'm more concerned in the changes in bike handling and my ability to throw my back end around. I expect some difficulty initially, but I assume I will get used to the "feel" of it Would you agree?
Second Question (specific) Although my frame has no cable stops to accomodate the Rohloff, I believe "bolt on" stops are included. What I would like to do would be to set up the SPOT with Rohloff on it, make all the neccesary adjustments, and then just keep the cables in place so I could make the most convienent "swapable" set up (meaning running the single speed wheel on the bike with the Rohloff cables on it, just disconnected and when I wanted to run gears swap the single speed rear wheel for the Rohloff wheel and hooking the cables back up). Is that possible or would I need to install the shifter and cable each and every time I want to run the SPOT with the Rohloff Hub and therefore making it a HUGE project!
I'm sorry that I am asking you sooo many questions but I need all the help I can get with this. This is ALOT of money to throw into a rear wheel. I know I could just get another hardtail, but the last thing my fiance wants to see is another bike finding a home in our garage. I just hope she never finds out how much a Rohloff is or she might make me sleep in the garage! :-) |
| I think I can answer those... | næstep
Jan 23, 2003 2:17 PM | | 1. Yes, it's XCable. I've seen a few XC racers on them, in addition to the handful of downhill racers that use one. I ride XC almost exclusively (neither of mine are "big hit" bikes) and if I'm suffering from a lack of efficiency, I simply don't know it. Did the "BOB Trailer" comment come from someone who's actually spent time on a Speedhub? That comment is absolutely, positively, 100% exaggerated.
I expected some sort of different handling. Bike in hand, the weight shift is obvious. On the trail, it's not apparant, even in the air. Didn't people initially complain that suspension forks threw off the balance of the bike? Well, either (a) that's false, or (b) the Speedhub finally balances everything out again.
2. No bolt on stops or any other provisions are included. It's suggested you run full length housing. I tried exposed cable runs initially, and it didn't work so well for my application, so I settled for full length, a couple of drilled out cable stops, and zip ties. Zip ties alone would do the trick.
You'll amost certainly want to keep the Speedhub on the bike 100% of the time, but that's just my biased opinion. Here's how I'd do it: External shifter box (not necessarily the disc brake version), zip ties along the seat stay, and two handlebars. Snip the zip ties, disconnect the brake cables, and swap bars. Have a second set of brake levers and grips on the second bar to get things running quickly. Should be just that quick. The is no easy way to disconnect the cables from the shifters.
Your chainring determines gearing, but if you run a 34T Spot SS ring and install a 13T cog on your Speedhub, you'll get a pretty "normal" range of gears. The 13T cog uses a slightly wider chainline than the others (15,16&17T use 54mm; 13T uses 57.5mm) so you'll have to make that jive with your crank and current SS hub.
If you had to sleep in the garage with your bike, it wouldn't be such a bad thing.
Chart below is a Rohloff gearing reference I made up using derailleur chainring/cog equivalents for comparison (instead of gear inches). For example, a 34/13 or 42/16 chainring/cog combo w/Speedhub = 30/22 equivalent low gear (gear #1) and 46/12 equivalent high gear (gear #14) plus 12 even steps inbetween. Have fun with it.
næstep |
| Thank You! I'll be ordering it on Saturday! (nm) | Festively Plump
Jan 23, 2003 2:28 PM | | |
| So now a couple questions for you... | næstep
Jan 23, 2003 5:02 PM | | (1) Do you have disc tabs? If so, you definitely want to order the OEM2 Axle Plate. I avoids the ugly torque arm that attaches to the chainstay with hose clamps.
(2) Do you run a rear disc brake? If so, you definitely want to order the Speedbone. The OEM2 Plate alone "uses up" a disc tab; the Speedbone + OEM2 Plate frees up the tab for a disc caliper to mount. You'll also need a Rohloff 4-bolt rotor.
(3) Are you planning to run the 13T cog? If so, you'll need to order it, as well as a cog removal tool. A 16T cog comes standard. Also be aware the 13T cog cannot be reversed for reuse as the 15, 16 & 17T cogs can. Plus don't forget the wider chainline requirement.
If you like the External Shifter box, even if you're not planning to run discs I'd suggest you order the disc brake version of the hub. The added cost is mostly in the External Shifter Box, as are most of the added grams. The disc "hubcap" adds very little weight penalty and will come in handy later if you decide to use discs.
næstep |
| Ah yes, I am familiar with conversations that start.. | Henry Dorset Case
Jan 23, 2003 2:49 PM | | ..."HOW much did that cost?????????" "Are you mental!!!!????" "Do you know how much we could do home improvement wise with that much money????" or "We could have a nice holiday somewhere...etc etc" Although truth be told, she is usually a very good sport about it. And I make a point never to ask how much stuff for the garden/lansscaping costs....she has her hobbies, I have mine. But I digress.....
Is it XC-able you ask. I say definitely yes. You will notice that the back end of the bike feels different, at least initially. I think it was more noticeable on my hardtail than my FS bike, although the hardtail was significantly lighter. It does not stop you doing anything, and you do get used to it. I also bent a rear rim with it, but that was due to operator error, and being overconfident on my FS bike...I don't think a heavier rear hub had anything to do with it. I did notice more pinch flats, so I ran the rear tyre quite hard, again, especially on the FS bike.....You won't find that if you are in mid air that all of a sudden your frame is vertical because of the hub, that I can assure you.
I have never pulled a BOB trailer, but I don't think its a justifiable comparison.....that comment seems to be related to what nate talks about below, a perceived inefficiency because of the minor drivetrain buzz in small (hillclimbing) gears. Is it an issue?, not in my opinion.
Leaving the cables/shifter in place if you are using it on an SS. Seems possible. although you will have to cable tie the shifter box to the frame to stop it flapping about...bad for the cables and the box, and potentially for your health if it locks the wheel. Also be aware that the front shifter is triangular, and it shortens your right handgrip. I trimmed mine as I have small hands. You would also need to make sure the chainline was the same.......easily done.
You would need to make sure that your SS wheel and rohloff wheel were the same as in rim size and width (if using v brakes) so they could swap easily.
will you be using the speedbone/OEM2 or torque arm setup? |
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