|   Headshock-service question | iceaxe
Mar 17, 2003 1:40 PM | | Does any one know where I can get a schematic/directions on how to maintain a Headshock fatty ultra DL? The thing needs to be burped and I want to do it myself. I know I need special tools to do it as well...but that's not an issue.
-Amadeo |
| Here's a link to what 'dale makes available to the public..... | quaffimodo
Mar 17, 2003 9:39 PM | | http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/tech/kitlist.html
Scroll down to the bottom of the page for the Headshok stuff. |
| re: Headshock-service question | Headshok'r
Mar 18, 2003 4:09 AM | | Try this...
Headshok DL Damper Oil Change/Bleed Procedure
Tools Required
HDTL187/--1/2" Headshok Shaft Clamps
KT006/--Lower Cap Wrench
HDTL149/--1/2" Bullet Tool
Green Park Pin Spanner
#1 Phillips Screwdriver
Vise
Red Loctite
Procedure
1. Remove the damper from the fork following the Removal Directions
2. Compress the damper so that the extent of the thru-shaft is at the bottom of the damper.
3. Clamp the lower portion of the thru-shaft into a vise using the Headshok Shaft Clamps.
4. Unthread the aluminum spring perch with a Green Park Pin Spanner.
5. Remove the two slip washers, lower top out spring cap, top out spring, upper top out spring cap, and o-ring from the thru-shaft. Lay everything out in the order that you removed it to ensure proper reinstallation.
6. Slip the Headshok Lower Cap Wrench over the thru-shaft and engage the tabs into the corresponding slots of the white lower cap that is threaded into the bottom of the oil cylinder.
7. Completely unthread the lower cap and remove it from the thru-shaft. This will expose the oil in the oil cylinder.
8. Turn the damper right side up and pour the oil out. Cycle the damper a few times to completely empty the cylinder.
9. Turn the damper upside down once again.
10. Looking down into the oil cylinder, position the piston about half way in the cylinder.
11. Start to fill the cylinder with oil.
12. Cycle the damper up and down to pull the oil onto the other side of the piston.
13. Add more oil and continue to cycle the damper until most of the air bubbles have floated to the surface. Pop the bubbles as they emerge. Fill with oil to the top of the cylinder threads.
14. Place the ½" Bullet Tool into the end of the thru-shaft.
15. Slide the lower cap of the damper back onto the thru-shaft.
16. Remove the ½" Bullet Tool.
17. Start to thread the lower cap back into the oil cylinder by hand. Thread the cap in by hand until it tightens.
18. Turn the damper right side up once again and open the bleed screw slightly until oil and air bubbles start to flow from around it. DO NOT REMOVE IT COMPLETELY.
19. Slide the Lower Cap Wrench onto the thru-shaft and finish threading the lower cap into the oil cylinder. KEEP A CLOSE EYE ON THE O-RING SEAL AROUND THE LOWER CAP. THIS SHOULD NOT GET PINCHED BETWEEN THE OIL CYLINDER AND THE LOWER CAP. IF IT DOES GET PINCHED, UNTHREAD THE LOWER CAP SLIGHTLY UNTIL THE O-RING SLIPS BACK INTO PLACE.
20. Close the bleed screw. DO NOT CYCLE THE DAMPER UNTIL THE BLEED SCREW IS CLOSED.
21. Cycle the damper a few times. It should feel smooth and have damping characteristics. If there feels to be some binding, check that the upper and lower caps are not over tightened. You could also open the bleed screw slightly to relieve any excess oil. A small amount of air in the system is OK as the oil can expand and contract.
22. Reinstall the top out spring and all included pieces back onto the damper. A small amount of red Loctite on the top out spring perch is fine. BE SURE TO USE THE ½" SHAFT CLAMPS TO TIGHTEN THE PERCH. |
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