|   '02 Atom Race 100 quest . . . ions | Motivated
Mar 19, 2003 3:41 PM | | I'm on a quest to dial in my fork. The manuals do me no good and my lbs is slanted towards Manitou, so I need advice from some do-it-at-home types.
-What is the easiest way to remove the oil?
-What oil (brand, weight) do you recommend for a 190lber? - I use the stiff (green) springs and like a stiff feel.
-How do you set oil level? Tools, techniques, etc. Seems the 45mm (1.77") in the manual is to accomodate the volume of the spring. What is the effect on performance if I run more or less oil. Does more oil increase damping? Too much oil will obviosly limit travel, but could I get away with 40mm??
M |
| re: '02 Atom Race 100 quest . . . ions | airwreck
Mar 20, 2003 3:51 AM | | Hi M-
We just changed springs on the '02 atom race 100 today. I agree, the manuals are getting worse. I measured about 65mm of oil after the springs were out. This is different than the 45mm you mentioned. In addition the soft springs (yellow) seemed about 2-3mm shorter than the stock reds. I'm going to run it like that for a while though.
As far at removing oil, just dumped it out (measured it) and fill a clean syringe w/ the recommended mL to refill. I've never ran less or more oil, only change weights (5w vs 10, etc) Can't imagine going down 5 cc will do much, as the oil level is never quite exact when you check it from the factory anyhow, huh? When you go to change oil/springs just make sure to to remove the little black c-clip between the preload knob and hex first before trying to undo the 20mm nut. Also the ECC knob came loose so a little loc tite came in handy for that little screw.
Also, I'm trying to figure out the ECC. When you engage the ECC, does it just lock out the rebound? It seems as if you can push down and down and it continues to lock down lower and lower. I suppose this is the way it's supposed to work, right? Anyhow, doubt I was much help, but go for it and take it apart and experiment. |
| re: '02 Atom Race 100 quest . . . ions | Motivated
Mar 20, 2003 8:44 AM | | I believe ECC just locks out reboud, but will continue to compress if you push down harder. In that sense it is designed for long seated climbs. But I rarely use it - even in a race because I forget to release as I crest the hill. I even have a picture of myself in a flat section with the fork almost totally compressed. It is nice for out of the saddle sprints. |
| this is how I change mine... | kokothemonkey
Mar 20, 2003 6:23 AM | | Things you will need: 21 mm socket, golden spectro/Marzocchi fork oil of desired weight ( I use 7.5 weight and I am 180lbs), syringe or other method of adding and removing small amounts of oil, allen wrench set, something other than your living room carpet.
First loosen the set screws on the black knobs on both legs, these are small allen bolts, don't back them out all the way just enough to remove the black knobs.
Under them you should see a C clip, remove it with a flat screwdriver.
Take the larger nut off with your 21 mm socket.
Under this will be the dampers with a REVERSE threaded nut, remove this nut the opposite way you removed the larger top cap.
The dampers will slide down until they stop, don't worry about it.
Remove the springs, dump the oil.
Add some of your new oil and pump the dampers to lube them up and get the old crap out of there.
Add your new oil, I am running 50 mm from the top of the surface of the oil up to the top of the crown. The oil is measured with the legs fully compressed with the dampers up all the way and the springs removed. For your weight and riding you may want to run 45-40 mm from the top (more oil will prevent it from bottoming)
Pump each damper about 10 times to work the oil in, measure again with the dampers up and legs compressed and add oil if needed.
Put springs in, now this is the part I am not positive about, thread the reverse nuts onto the top of the damper. I do not know how snug to get the nuts, I think just enough to hold the dampers up there when you re-install the top caps.
Screw the top caps on and snug them. If you did not thread the reverse nuts enough onto the dampers, they will slide back into the fork when you install the top cap, you will have to take the top cap back off, fish out the damper and rethread the reverse nut on a bit more and try again (happened to me).
Add c clip, add black knobs, tighten set screws, rock and roll.
This is how I change mine and from info I have gathered from this site and Ventanarama, who knows it all basically, so others may change their oil differently, and they may have an answer on how tight to thread the nuts onto the dampers :).
As far as I know, oil level will affect travel, like I said I run 50 mm and I bottom periodically, but it is extremely plush and it eats up babyheads like you are in a cadillac so that's how I run mine. If you get the oil level way off (like it came from marzocchi) the ecc will begin to creep up on you, and basically not work correctly but 40-45 mm should be fine. You can also change the weight of the oil to affect the shock performance, but as far as I can ascertain, the shock weight will not affect the travel but affect the damping or something else, I have not tried it to be honest. I run 7.5 weight, 10 weight is the heaviest oil, and it's pretty expensive so I don't know what you want to try, with the stiff springs in there (I am running stock) you may want to try 7.5 weight. It's easy to change the oil, and it's a badass fork, hope this helped!
~koko |
| this is how I change mine... | Motivated
Mar 20, 2003 8:33 AM | | Thanks very much for your detailed response - I'll keep it with my collection of tuning tips. Basically all that jives with what I'm doing, but you fill in several holes in my experience gap. I had no idea what oil to use and ended up with 15wt, which I only put in one side. I'm going to get some 10wt and put that in both sides (after dumping what is in there). I like a firm feel up front because I have trouble steering if I don't get feedback from the fork.
I like the fork, but wish it were easier to setup and weighed less. That said I like it more and more as the miles pile up. It has saved my ass on several occasions. |
| noticing some weirdness... | airwreck
Mar 20, 2003 1:44 PM | | So we were in a rush to get the new springs and the fork installed and I didn't look to see that 65mm on the oil level was way off, better remeasure...
Anyway, the weird thing that I am noticing is that I can pull the fork and extend it another several mm. Let me explain. When the fork was new I measured the stanchion showing between the top of the seal and the bottom of the crown and was getting 100mm. After the spring change and install I noticed that this distance was now 95mm and that I could pull the legs down and extend it to 105mm. It is like it is sticking. Didn't notice if it was doing this before the spring change.
Everything seems to have gone back together correctly, the only odd thing is the oil height and the spring length being 2mm shorter(specs verify this is correct).
Have never experienced this before and we have extensive experience with many marz forks. Thought I'd throw this in here, I will contact marz and double check everything again, any input appreciated.
Thanks,
Eric |
| Sounds like the "Negative" Spring | Mud
Mar 20, 2003 1:57 PM | | Most Bombers have a "negative" spring which essentially is a fancy way of saying that it eliminiates the harsh "top-out" when the fork returns to full extension. So, when you pull your fork you're actually getting the negative travel.
Maybe someone else will give a more detailed explanation. |
| you got it right | jschoef
Mar 20, 2003 8:50 PM | | Ive become a sort of expert on the Marzocchi Atoms and XFlys and getting pretty knowledgeable with the Marathons. There is negative top out springs in the atoms and xflys, the pulling up on it and finding more travel is normal, your just compressing the negative springs.
http://www.mtbmind.com |
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