|   Talas lockout inop after oil change... | RDC
Aug 4, 2003 3:14 PM | | I switched to some 2.5 wt oil in my Talas a few weeks ago, and went to use my lockout yesterday for the first time and it doesn't work. The blow-off know is dialed in all the way, so it's not that. I did not loose the little ball bearing under the lockout/compression knob and it turns the lockout rod correctly. What else could it be? Is it the 2.5 wt oil by any chance? Can not enough oil cause this, I added about 150cc's only because I wasn't getting full travel at the recommended 160cc's. Any ideas? |
| Sometimes it takes quite a few fork cycles to get the lockout... | Tscheezy
Aug 4, 2003 5:25 PM | | working again. Also, the fork needs to be near top-out before the lockout engages (dunno why), so try pulling up on the fork to see if that helps. Low oil could cause issues, though I really think the 160cc or whatever the manual says is too much and I also only add 10-15cc less. I was not getting full travel with Fox's recommended oil height (and I'm sure I was getting all the residual oil out of the damper. The viscosity could be the problem too. Page DGC as he has played with viscosity some. I would start by changing the oil again back to at least 5 wt, if not the stock 7.5 wt. 2.5 wt really is very very low and probably will not speed up dampening anyway (like you want?).
tscheezy |
| I tried cycling the fork a few times.... | RDC
Aug 4, 2003 5:48 PM | | and it still wouldn't lock out. Actually changing to the 2.5 wt oil really did make a big difference in the high speed dampening for me. It has made the fork liveable for me, and I noticed a huge difference at both low and high speeds in the compression strokes. I actually started out with changing it to 5wt, which didn't help the dampening hardly at all. The lockout worked fine with both the stock oil and the 5wt, and never required me to cycle the fork....it always worked immediately. I'm certainly willing to forego the lockout because having the 2.5wt oil is much more important to me. I guess one option is to switch back to 5wt just to see if it works then...but it may not be worth the trouble. Does DGC roam this forum often? Thanks for your help! |
| Yes, DGC roams here frequently. Also, do a search of the | Tscheezy
Aug 4, 2003 7:03 PM | | archives as I know this has been discussed in relation to the Talas feeling harsh at 125mm of travel. I would search for "DGC talas weight" or something like that. Mid winter of this year or so.
tscheezy |
| re: Talas lockout inop after oil change... | DGC
Aug 4, 2003 8:09 PM | | One thing i would automatically do is get the stock oil back in the fork. All the damping rates in all Fox forx are set around their own 7 wt. oil.
Beyond the oil change.......first and foremost is:
Look at the picture I have posted here, that little o-ring on the top of the cartridge adjuster assembly MUST be there on the compression rod, if not, that is a likely cause of your problem, and also look in the middle of the top cap.....that brass colored round cylinder is what closes off the oil when the lock out is activated. Make sure it is there, moves smooverly up and down if you manually move the brass threaded close off piece by hand without the lock out lever, and be sure it is perfectly round. If its not round, it wont really go over the o-ring and or even allow for you to get the top cap on the rod in the first place without damage.
Since your inside the top cap compression assembly, make sure their is no lock tite debris in between the shims that sit on bottom of the slow speed piston, not realy likely to be the problem but check it anyways. check all this first before going any further. |
| I figured it out guys.... | RDC
Aug 4, 2003 8:52 PM | | Somehow I had the lockout rod turned out counterclockwise too far, so when I turned the lever to the 6 o'clock position the rod wasn't closed all the way. I just took the rebound knob off, then loosened the lockout knob and turned the nut clockwise with the lever a few times until it tightened up. Then I placed the lockout lever back on in the 6 o'clock position and it now everything is fine. Not sure how that lockout rod got turned so far counterclockwise, but oh well. DGC and tscheezy thanks for your help.
DGC, you recommended that I switch back to the stock 7wt oil...why is that? I put the 2.5wt in and I love the way the fork feels now. I weigh in at 155# and more of my body weight is in my lower body. The fork was just way too harsh at speed with the stock oil in it. It was recommended to me by a reputable person to try the 2.5wt oil. If it's not doing any harm to the internals of the fork and I like the way it feels, then why should I switch back to 7wt? If it weren't for the 2.5wt, I'd be selling my Talas at this point. Just wondering what your reasoning was behind your comment? Thanks |
| I figured it out guys.... | DGC
Aug 4, 2003 9:27 PM | | If you like the feel that much, stay with it.
The reasoning is as i said before, the damping in the fork was designed with 7 weight fork oil. both rebound and compression change a lot when going to an oil that thin (2.5 wt.)
The Fox fork is more specific to the stock oil weight than say Marzocchi forks are. (and as an example for next year Rock Shox intends to use 5 wt. oil in every single fork they make, as does Manitou right now). I feel the Talas is too linear, wallows too much in its travel, and is in serious need of a better compression damping system, and lighter oil would only magnifies these traits I feel when I ride the Talas. If they had about 20% more range than now offered on the 8 clicker dial, starting with about 10% lighter initially then you would not be needing to go with lighter oil. It would also need better mid stroke compression control, then they would have a better all around riding air fork. The less agressive the rider the better on a Talas, at least it seems this way, however very smooth riders can like the Talas and still be agressive, but too light a rider and that produces the harsher ride, which you seemed to be having problems with. Since the weight between the Talas and a Vanilla are so small, the Vanilla is a better choice when small bump performance is what you need.
Good to see you figured out the lock out issue. |
| I see your point | RDC
Aug 5, 2003 5:29 AM | | The thing that has kept me holding onto the Talas is the adjustable travel. That is something I find invaluable for climbing and I'm not willing to go with a fixed travel fork like the Vanilla. I've considered going with a Psylo on many occasions, and I still may do so. I'm just worried about the reliability of a Psylo. I have an '02 Psylo XC on an older bike I'm trying to sell, and it feels much smoother compared to my Talas. I just love every other aspect of the Talas besides the compression dampening. I guess I'll just live with it until a better alternative comes around. |
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