|   Pagin' Fox Forx Maintenance Experts................. | TheOld Man
Oct 15, 2003 6:33 AM | | After less than 100 miles both of the wiper seals on my F80RLT are leaking badly (running down the stanchions). I called Fox and they indicated that some of the seals were out of spec and they sent me a new wiper seal kit. The tech rep said all I had to do was remove the nuts from each bottom leg bottom and the lowers would slide off and I could replace the seals. This clearly is not the case -- it appears that the 26mm nut on the top on each side must be removed but I'm not sure. The manual has no info on seal replacement -- just oil changes and there is no PDF on the fox website indicating how to do this. I have no problem with the wrenching of the project but would like some direction. Any help would be greatly appreciated as I'm bogged down.
Thanks!! |
| The tech was sort of right... | Metroid
Oct 15, 2003 7:34 AM | | You don't need to remove the topcaps to get the legs off. However, it may be necessary to do so anyway.
I would remove the brake especially disc to avoid contamination before starting. Remove the bottom nuts (easier said than done sometimes) and the legs will pull right off. It may require some compression to remove the nuts. And if they start to come off, don't stop until they are off. Be careful when removing the legs though because there is quite a bit of oil in the damper side and some, although not nearly as much, in the spring side. Once the legs are off, you can pop out the old seals and pop in the new ones. Make sure you don't loose any of the springs in the process.
At this point, you are following the oil change process outlined in the manual. Putting the oil back in can be done without removing the top cap but it's much easier to get the oil in on the damper side from the top rather than the hole in the bottom. On the Float models, you have to put the bath oil in the bottom. Be careful on getting all the oil out of the cartridge. The oil level in the damping side is fairly sensititve. I would wring out the foam rings and put them in dry. With too much oil, you will get hydraulic lockout and lose travel. While you are at it and when you are done with the rest, I would change/add to the Float fluid as well. This is in the air chamber only accessible from the top cap of the spring side.
So like I said, it can be done without removing the top caps but you might as well. |
| Oh yeah, one more thing... | Metroid
Oct 15, 2003 7:38 AM | | My buddy was having the same problem and a Fox tech recommended putting some Slick Honey under the seals. It worked. So before you go tearing apart your brand new fork, you may want to try that. You just need to carefully pry up the seals, spread Slick Honey on the stanchions under the seals and slide them back down. This might help with the oil weeping and avoid the whole oil change process. |
| Slick Honey..... | Ricko
Oct 15, 2003 12:15 PM | | I had a problem with seals slobbering on my Vanilla and did a complete teardown, removed the seals and cleaned them thoroughly. I then packed the groove on the inside of the seals with Slick Honey, reassembled the whole sha-bang and put in new oil...no more leaky seals!
Tip: Slide the seals up the stantions and then install into the lowers and press the seals into the lowers afterwards...less chance of buggering up the seal lips that way.
Be brave...just get a six pack and rip the the thing down, it's FUN! |
| What he said, plus one more tip | Mikey
Oct 15, 2003 8:06 AM | | With Fox (and other forks, at least Manitou), you need to unscrew the bottom nuts partway (not off), then tap the bolts with a rubber mallet or block of wood to release the shaft from the lowers, then you can remove the nuts and slide off the lowers.
Be ready to catch the oil that will flow out of the bolt holes! 160cc from the right and 30cc from the left. |
| I disagree... | Metroid
Oct 15, 2003 9:36 AM | | If you do this, it can make it very difficult to remove the bolts. That's why I mentioned that if you can get the bolts to turn, completely remove them before tapping the shaft. This is just my experience, your results may vary. |
| Yep, me too.... | Ventanarama
Oct 15, 2003 9:55 AM | | I always take them all the way off now before tapping the shaft, just have to be somewhat careful not to bang up the threads.
Larry Mettler
http://www.mtnhighcyclery.com |
| I disagree... | Mikey
Oct 15, 2003 10:08 AM | | I didn't see you mention tapping the bolts to separate them from the lowers, so that was the point I was making. I guess it could be done with the bolts on or off like you said. |
| O.K., here's the scoop...... | Ventanarama
Oct 15, 2003 10:00 AM | | Yes, you can do it without taking the top caps off and without draining the oil. Turn the fork upside down and let it sit for a few minutes so as much oil as possible drains into the uppers. Take the bottom nuts off, then just slide the lowers off of the stanchions. Works best if you have a stand or something to clamp the steerer in to hold the uppers, so you don't accidently spill oil out. If you're careful you can do it this way and not loose a significant amount of oil. Only takes about 5 minutes.
Larry Mettler
http://www.mtnhighcyclery.com |
| That's a good idea... | Metroid
Oct 16, 2003 5:55 AM | | I never though of that. That would work out to be a lot quicker/easier than having to change the oil and everything.
THANKS!!! |
| Thanks to all and one more question............. | TheOld Man
Oct 15, 2003 10:17 AM | | On the side that has the compression blow off adjuster -- do I really want to tap that little shaft that comes out of the threaded part? I have the blue knob off and the nuts off of both sides but the lowers will not come off -- when I pull them I get a clunking sound. I'm not one to force anything 'till I get it right.
Thanks!! |
| The bolts are often stuck in there pretty good. | Tscheezy
Oct 15, 2003 10:55 AM | | It often takes me a few pretty good whacks to break the bolts free from the lowers. You do not want to hit that skinny little rod sticking out the middle of the bolt on the blowoff threshold side. I use a piece of hardwood (oak) and rest it up against the bottom of the bolt NEXT to the little shaft, and tap on the wood. That way I also don't biff the threads which are kinda brittle. My old Vanilla comes free pretty easily, but my new Vanilla is really tight.
I will have to go through this eventually too, as my old Vanilla has a very minor leak on the damper side at the wipers. However, the trick Metroid mentioned above slowed the leak down quite a bit (didn't really stop it). I put the new clear Prep M on the sponge along with fork oil instead of Slick Honey.
tscheezy |
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