|  FSR Set Up and Maint. | Threesticks Oct 17, 2003 7:34 AM | | I have a '01 Stumpjumper FSR XC and have some questions. First, what is a good ball park pressure for the Fox Float R rear ahock? I weigh 195# and don't ride too aggressively (it seems like the more gray my beard becomes the slower I become) but like to go for long rides where it is rocky. The range of pressure I have been given by several sources is from 160 to 250 PSI. Some have even told me not to worry about the sag, just pump it up until its firm. I would like to know what other FSR riders are running.
Second question: It is time to take the shock apart and lube it. I have read the manual on the web page about removing the air sleeve and greasing the internal seals. The shock is holding air but is beginning to make sounds and feel rougher than when new. I have some Pedro's Syn Lube. Would this work or is there some thing better?
Would this also be a good time to replace the seals and if so can I get them locally here in Phoenix or are they an OEM thing?
I thank you all for your help and input.
Steve |
|  re: FSR Set Up and Maint. | So Cal Dude Oct 17, 2003 12:55 PM | | I have the same bike and weigh the same (give or take), and I run the pressure at about 175 in the rear, seems to work for me. Just start with a number you like and go ride, then see if you've bottomed it or not. If you have, maybe go up about 10 pounds. To me, it seems that you should bottom the shock out every once in a while to make sure that your using all your travel.
Second Question: I don't know, Sorry. But good point, I'll ask around to see what I can find out.
Later... |
|  maintenance on the shock is quite easy. | RVM Oct 17, 2003 1:44 PM | | http://www.foxracingshox.com/website/OwnersManuals.asp?Market=MBike
just download the manual online if you lost yours. The manual for the shock is detailed, unlike the one for the Forx. You're gonna have to let the air out of the shock, take it off the bike and take the shock apart. I just used the Park Tool work stand to clamp the shock since I don't have a vise sitting around. And yes, Pedro's grease should work fine.
As for the amount of air to put in the shock, the shop guy told me to match the rider weight. That's what I do. Seems to work fine for me... |
|  Could you share your "sources"? | PiroChu Oct 17, 2003 3:53 PM | |
I used to have a '99 FSRxc, but I just got a '03 SJ FSR frame as a warranty replacement. It came with a Float RL, but no manual was included.
I'd like to see some example "psi per rider weight" tuning-info charts like the ones found in the Specialized manual that came with my old '99 bike, just to get a general starting point. I called Specialized, but they just told me to go to Fox website, where I only saw "Application Guide" (where it notes length & travel, but no "psi/weight") and "Owners Manual" (PDF file) for my new shock (but not specific in use with this frame, per se).
According to the web info, my shock length is 6" and my shock travel is 1.25". All I saw is just the "recommended sag" of only .31" (or 7.9mm). (That seems to be pretty stiff...?) I suppose I'll just do the trial-and-error (or "get-on-and-get-off") method to reach this sag. (I'm 150lbs, by the way.)
I just think that a "psi per rider weight" chart could give a general starting point to make it easy for people (like me).
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|  I'm also 150lbs and have a couple of years on my FSR... | Brian L Oct 18, 2003 8:29 AM | | FWIW I've been on an '01 FSR XC for two years now (mostly "trail riding", not racing), and found that setting the shock at my body weight (150psi) is a good ballpark for me, in the 90mm travel setting, and that's about the right pressure to get Fox's recommended sag. In the 75mm setting, since the leverage is different, ~135psi works to get the same sag. Problem is that with the "right" sag setting I never use full travel (1" on the shock at the most), and running less pressure means I hit my pedals a lot over roots and rocks. I guess a progressive suspension design with a progressive air shock means it's not exactly "plush".
This means I haven't found a shock pressure that works all the time. Often when I'm doing a "standard" ride, meaning climb to the top, then descend to the car, I start with 150-160psi to keep the rear a bit higher and firmer, then adjust it to 130-140psi for the descent to make the rear a bit more active.
I'm thinking a more linear shock would be nice on this bike, so I'm really hoping Fox comes up with an AVA chamber upgrade for the 6/1.25 Float. A platform shock might be interesting too but out of my budget for now...
Oh, and go ahead and do the air chamber maintenance, easy enough and helps to keep the shock supple. I think they recommend slick honey but Judy Butter seems to work too. |
|  re: 'full travel' vs ' pedal banging' (and about BETD link) | PiroChu Oct 18, 2003 11:43 AM | |
Thanks for your feedback, Brian, and I totally agree with your post about "not getting full travel" vs "pedal hitting rocks/roots". Since I was too lazy to change air pressure during the ride (trail ride, no racing), I went with the latter option by pumping 115~120psi in my old '99 Float on '99 SJ FSRxc with MRP link set at 90mm. It felt better this way (not so stiff), but my pedals sure hit lots of things. My ATAC alm's are beat-up (pins bent, etc) from all the banging (time for new pedals), but I've not gotten into Egg Beaters for this reason, either.
Even right out of the box (not even test-ridden yet), I noticed that '03 Float RL on '03 SJ FSR (not called FSRxc in '03?) is significantly smoother than my old one. I'm not sure if this attributes to the shock or the frame or both... What do you think? Anyway, I can't wait to finally ride it tomorrow!
By the way, as for '01 & '02 & '03 FSR(xc), BETD (in UK) makes an after-market shock linkage (about US$150).
On their homepage (the info on which has not been updated in a while, per BETD), the spec is posted as below...
1) Head angle 71 degrees, Travel 117mm
2) Head angle 73 degrees, Travel 120mm
3) Head angle 73 degrees, Travel 99mm
4) Head angle 71 degrees, Travel 106mm
However, per Dan at BETD, this linkage has since been updated/modified (and works for '03, in addition to '01/'02), and here's the new spec (assumed with a 100mm fork up front)...
| Travel | Head Angle | BB |
| 103mm | 69.5 | 12 7/8 |
| 99mm | 71 | 13.50 |
| 120mm | 71 | 13 5/8 |
| 105mm | 69.5 | 12 3/4 |
Dan at BETD also noted to pump 30psi more than usual with BETD link.
For now, I put my old 80mm fork ('00 Marz Z2 Atom 80) on my new '03 frame, while still trying to decide on a new fork. Vanilla R (set at 100mm) or Marathon S (105mm) for $320-ish. Or, if I *really* splurge, I suppose Talas R for $500-ish could be nice (though I still prefer/trust coil more). If I go with Talas, I could justify the BETD link to match the front/rear travel. If I go with Vanilla or Marathon, then I suppose the stock link at 90mm is "close enough" for a front/rear balance... What to do, what to do... |
|  re: 'full travel' vs ' pedal banging' (and about BETD link) | dealy663 Oct 19, 2003 11:19 AM | | I recently got the BETD link for my '02 FSR XC Pro frame. It is really a nice piece of work. Quite a bit larger and more robust than the original link from Spec. Also the bearing and bolt setting seems to be superior in my opinon. The only negative is that it weighs more. How much I'm not sure, but its probably over 100 grams heavier.
I'm running the 99mm 71 head tube angle setting and the bike is significantly higher than the stock setup. I also am running an '02 Marzocchi Marathon S 100mm fork. IMHO if you're going for a 100mm fork, then you should upgrade to the BETD link. You won't be sorry.
Derek |
|  BETD link for ('01/'02/'03 FSRxc) | PiroChu Oct 20, 2003 9:05 AM | | Derek:
Thanks for the feedback. Hummm, I think I ought to order one...
Do you happen to have a pic of this piece? Dan at BETD said that it looks different from the old pic that's still on their site.
Does the piece come with bushing or bolts and things, or just the link itself (& instruction) only (& use all stock nuts/bolts/washers)? Do I need anything else?
With your BETD set at 99mm, how much air do you have in your Float shock? Just curious... In contrast to 115~120psi in my old '99 Float/FSRxc, I had to pump 150psi (I'm 150lbs) in my new '03 FloatRL/FSR because I kept bottoming out at 120, 130, and 140psi yesterday (my 1st test ride). |
|  BETD link for ('01/'02/'03 FSRxc) | Brian L Oct 20, 2003 3:59 PM | | I knew about the BETD link and it's been tempting for me too. It's a nice piece, but it's not exactly cheap (factor in shipping across the pond etc).
A platform shock would allow a lot of setup options too (maybe not travel but it should reduce pedal banging), so I'm not sure which way to go... |
|  BETD link for ('01/'02/'03 FSRxc) | sherm Oct 20, 2003 4:30 PM | | I put a BETD link on my '03 Stumpjumper last week. It did'nt come with any directions whatsoever but was pretty easy to install.
In what I assume to be The 106 mm position I run about 160 psi.
at 117 mm 210 psi seems to work for me. I like it a lot but it's bringing out the weakness of my cheap 100 mm OEM fork. I'm looking at a Marzocchi MX w/eta but can't decide between 105 or 120 travel.
Anyone have any experience with this? |
|  BETD link for ('01/'02/'03 FSRxc) | dealy663 Oct 20, 2003 7:57 PM | | Sorry I don't have any pics, but it really doesn't look all that different than the one on their website.
The link came with all bolts and bearings needed to mount it to your FSR frame. However I ordered the stronger bolt sleeve. This is sorta like a bushing that goes the whole length of the bolt. I did this because I had bent my original shock mount bolt from speciazlized and wanted the extra protection.
The link came without any instructions, but mounting it was a piece of cake. The only thing you need info on is which shock bolt positions correspond to which geometry you want. Of course I can't find the email from Rob to tell you.
I'm running in the 99 mm travel, 71 degree setting. I weigh about 183lbs and currently have the shock pumped up to about 230psi I believe. Even at this high a pressure I'm still getting about 10mm of sag on the Float RL which is a little too much according to the Fox reccomendations. I haven't noticeably bottomed the thing out yet. And just yesterday I was watching my shadow while doing a fire road climb and I could not see any shock movement. Unfortunately my shadow was not at a complete 90 degree angle to me so there may have been some but if so it had to be really small.
Before I got the link I was running 190psi in the rear shock.
Ok I found the geometries.
The top holes on the link are for the steeper head tube angle of 71 degrees, the lower holes are for the 69.5 degree HT angle.
The front holes are for the longer travel option around 120mm and the rear holes are for the shorter travel option, closer to 100mm.
Derek |
|  Just ordered one... (& the stronger "bolt sleeve"???) | PiroChu Oct 21, 2003 9:33 AM | |
Just caleed them and ordered one this morning at 4:30AM (California time). *yawn* :-p
Darn it, I didn't know about this "stronger bolt sleeve" thinggie. I wonder if it'll be a good idea for me (at 150lbs) to get one...? (I did crack the MRP link kit on my old '99 FSRxc, but never broke/bent bolts on it.)
All this added travel is certainly attractive, but it leads me to one last thought: Is the frame itself up to the task? It is - after all - just a XC rig, not FR. Right? ;-p At 180lbs/99mm/230psi, how big of a drop do you hit on this technically-XC-yet-BETD-enhanced rig?
Have you tried 120mm setting, by the way? Since both 99mm & 120mm are had at 71 HT angle, what are the reasons NOT to simply leave it at 120mm? Since the HT-geo remains constant, isn't more the better? Or does the small-bump sensitivity becomes less active, as more air pressure is needed for a longer travel setting? OK, so the BB height changes. Is that it, maybe?
Thanks again for all the helpful info. |
|  Just ordered one... (& the stronger "bolt sleeve"???) | dealy663 Oct 21, 2003 5:31 PM | | I ride aggresive XC and really need a trail bike a bit more than an XC race bike which is what I originally bought over 2 years ago. So that's what I've transformed my bike into. If I had to do it over again though I would get an Enduro S-Works or a Blur.
Given that I don't have infinite funds like some people around here, I just can't sell my perfectly good bike and spend another $1 - $2k on a new bike.
The 120mm travel setting seems like too much for this frame. It was built for 90mm and I've increased it by 10mm. 30mm seems like too big a jump and that it would likely reduce the peadaling efficiency of the bike.
There are certainly guys that are a lot heavier than me riding these bikes and not destroying them. While I ride in some pretty rough stuff, I do not take 3' drops and all the other bull$hit that people around here claim they do all the time on their XC bikes.
Derek |
|  BETD's "New STRONG Shock Bushes" & "Hulahoop Eyelet Bush" | PiroChu Oct 22, 2003 8:55 AM | |
Now that I found it on their website (under the Shock Bushes section), I guess it's a stronger replacement bolt/sleeve for the shock eyelet, not replacement bolts for attaching the link itself to the frame. (Correct?)
Unfortunately (or fortunately), my link kit had already been shipped out (as I missed your post about the bolt by just one day), so I guess I'm going to wait until my stock shock bushing wears out first. (I don't feel like paying shipping costs twice right now.)
By the way, with your "Strong Shock Bushes" (£15), did you get the teflon-soaked "Hulahoop Eyelet Bush" (£4), too? If so, could you tell any significant improvement(s)? Also, if I don't want to get bushing-swap done at LBS each time, I suppose I should get the Bush Extraction/Fitting Tool (£30) next time, too, eh?
Anyway, it's certainly good to know that "it's there" for when I need to change my shock bushing/bolt next time in the future. With my old MRP link on '99 FSRxc, I had to change my shock bushing every year. S-Works here is using a BETD link on his '99 FSRxc and yet to replace the shock bushing with it. So, I have high hopes for BETD stuff. Maybe my bushing will finally last longer now...
Thanks again.
 |
|  The BETD link has arrived, but... (whine) | PiroChu Oct 27, 2003 3:18 PM | |
Just received BETD link now.
It certainly looks great - beefy & promissing. But they sent me a wrong color. I ordered a black one, but they sent me a red one. If they sent me a silver one by mistake, I'd just kept it. But, not red. I know, I know, it's just a color, but I really don't like red.
Let's see how BETD deals with this silly mess-up, as I've already sent email to them. I hope they're pretty good about it, but I've never dealt with them before, so I guess I'll find out...
I suppose I should hold off on mounting this thing onto my bike, too. I was really looking forward to going on a test ride soon, though! Bummer... |
|  pic | PiroChu Oct 27, 2003 9:14 PM | |
The BETD link is huge! The size (or leverage) difference is quite significant, especially putting it next to the stock one (pic below).
As in the pic, the unit (& bolts, etc) is 215g (half a pound).
Too bad for the wrong color (hideous red) they sent me by mistake. I hope they can swap it quickly painlessly for me...
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|  I'll have to get those stronger bolts, too, because... | PiroChu Oct 28, 2003 9:26 PM | | Derek,
I'll have to get those stronger bolts, too, because I just found out that both of my shock bolts (top & bottom) are already bent, to my surprise, especially since I only had a few rides on my new rig. Good thing I pulled them out tonight just to check, but it's a bummer... I hope my bushings are still OK, unaffected by the bent bolts, etc... |
|  Just had the 1st test ride w/ BETD link, and... "Wow!!" :-) | PiroChu Nov 3, 2003 9:24 PM | |
I just had the 1st test ride with the red "loaner" BETD link over the weekend (my 'black' one isn't here yet), and - "WOW!!" - what a difference in the ride performance! It not only makes the rear-end laterally stiffer, but the shock operation is so much smoother (especially on landing, etc). I don't know if it's the link's design/production quality or the needle bearings or both, but it's such a nice feel.
Brian:
It certainly wasn't cheap for me, either, but, just after one good ride, I know it was worth the money (& the extra 100g), making my harsher XC rig a bit more like a smoother trail-ride rig. (It depends on what one personally intends the bike/shock/link to do, of course.) A bit of skepticism that I had (as to how much of a difference this would actually make) is now gone-gone-gone. ;-)
Derek:
For my 150lbs (plus a few more pounds w/ gear), I ended up having to pump 195psi (yikes!) to get the 'recommended sag' (0.31" or 7.9mm), when put on the "105mm" setting (I'm not sure if that's supposed to be "115mm" per typo - I'm double-checking w/ BETD) mainly because that gives me the lowest BB height of the 4 positions at 12 3/4". The stock for my frame is 12.5", and I have short legs. When I tried the 99mm or 120mm positions with 13"+ BB height, I just felt like I was on a XL-size bike (scary). With 195psi, I'm still getting a full travel (1.25" or 31.8mm) on a harsh stuff, so I must have set it right, more or less. I really feels very smooth on mid- to bigger stuff. When pumping that much air, maybe the small stuff feels a bit harsher, but that may just be up in my head, conceptually...? What do you think?
Again, below pic shows the significant difference between BETD link & stock link...
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|  PiroChu, what fork do you have on your bike? | sherm Nov 4, 2003 3:05 PM | | I have a very similar setup- '03 Stumpy FSR w/ BETD link and am considering going from 100mm to a 120mm fork (Marzocchi MX Comp). Not sure if that will make the front end too slack. Do you have any experience with a longer travel fork on this bike? Thanks in advance. |
|  '04 Talas RL fork | PiroChu Nov 4, 2003 8:21 PM | |
Sherm:
Coming from an do-it-all 80mm fork (Z2 Atom 80 on '99 FSRxc), a 100mm is plenty enough "do-it-all" for me. Although I have different travel options with a Talas fork (got it from Larry/MtnHghCyclry), I most always set it at 100mm and don't touch it at all (except for this one really sketchy bumpy loose babyhead-rock infested downhill run where I put it up to 125mm). Pretty much anything in-between (relaxed or technical, up or down) is nicely handled at 100mm. In fact, just for fun, whenever I put it up to 125mm on other 'regular' fun/technical downhills, I keep ending up off-course! (Steerling seems a bit slower with 125mm...?)
I think that '03 FSR must've been really spec'ed with a 100mm fork, but probably not much more. Generally, 125mm is overkill for me & this bike & its use. The extra travel may be nice occasionally, but the same quick control just isn't there on fast twisty runs, in my opinion. Well, at least for me (aka ex-80mm user) and/or for this bike, anyway. Also, I still like to climb, and 100mm still lets me climb without any prob's (I never use a lockout). I don't think that'd be the case with a 125mm fork. I pretty much consider my 125mm-fork setting as an 'emergency' button, when/where needed on rare really-scary occasions.
I guess it depends on what you want to do. I know that you know that you shouldn't be making a true FR/DH bike out of this light-duty XC rig, of course. ;-)
Also, while the stock link gives a 71' headangle, assumed with a 100mm fork, my BETD is set at 105mm which gives 69.5' headangle and (more importanly) 12 3/4" BB height (for my short legs) which seems to be perfect for me, personally. With 100mm, I think it's a good balance/match.
Anyway, since I just got Talas & BETD, pls take my feedback with a grain of salt.
Oh, also, I just got my "black" link in the mail today (& Strong Shock Bushes & Hula Hoop Bush --- BETD totally hooked me up, thanks to Rob). I can send the red 'loaner' one back to BETD now...
With all these stronger bolts/bush, the whole thing is 310g (the link itself was about 200g or so, I think), so my whole bike must be close to 31lbs now.
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|  '04 Talas RL fork | goldrush Nov 5, 2003 8:16 PM | | I've been considering the BETD Link for my '01 Stumpy FSR. Where I live and ride there are rock gardens where I constantly bash my pedals. PiroChu would you mind telling me what the final cost was for the link, bolt upgrades and shipping came to?
Thanks |
|  BETD Link = US$150/link + US$30/ship (when I got it) | PiroChu Nov 6, 2003 8:26 AM | |
It breaks down to US$150/link + US$30/shipping. I bought mine in October, and that's the price I got. (The exchange rate fluctuates, of course.)
BETD threw in Strong Shock Bush and stuff as 'freebie' for me, because they initially messed up and sent me the link in the wrong color. The prices for these bolts/bushes are listed (in UK-£) on their website, and there's also a "Currency Converter" there at the bottom of the left-side/vertical frame/window. |
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