|   How do you ride over a stump say...1.5 - 2 feet diameter | AlexTorma
Dec 22, 2002 3:35 PM | | How do you ride over a stump say...1.5 - 2 feet diameter. I do have clipless pedals |
| practice | flat top
Dec 23, 2002 7:50 AM | | Once you try to get over stuff that is high enough that your big ring is going to hit it, try this. do a high enough wheely that not only your wheel clears the object but so does your chain ring. As your rear wheel touches, or just about touches the log, shift your weight forward over the object and pedal the chainring over it. Your chainring will grip the log but your back wheel wont. Rely on your momentum and weight shift to get the rear wheel over the log. To be able to do this your pedals have to be in the right position when you touch the log. That is 2 and 8 o-clock. do it at slow speed. You will be bashing things at first and it will seem very rough on the equipment. Try and do it smoothly. Check out the videos on this site http://www.trials-online.com/ to see how this move and many more are done. |
| I say, "Uh-oh...look out...ooops. OW, @#$#!" (nm) | Size 50
Dec 23, 2002 8:55 AM | | |
| Like this: | kendog
Dec 23, 2002 9:40 AM | | I will generally approach at walking speed. I pull a wheelie and place the front wheel directly on the center of the log. Then I quickly pull the rear wheel up and push the bike hard up and forward. The idea is to place the rear wheel where the front wheel just was. You also need to push the bike out in front of you so that your butt is behind the saddle. It takes some practice and there are some slight variations you can try depending on the size of the log and the approach or roll out, but it works well.
Think of it this way: approach, front wheel on log, pull bike up (sort of like a J-hop), push bike forward, rear wheel on the log, and roll off.
Your chainring should NEVER touch the log. I've been riding the same crankset for 4 years. I don't use a rock ring and have never bent the large ring. |
| how exactly to you "pull the bike up" | weezy
Dec 23, 2002 12:53 PM | | This is the one point that people always talk about, but never actually describe the motions involved. I don't see how you can get the rear wheel over without hitting the chainring on the log.
What kind of motions are you doing in order to get the rear wheel to the log instead of hitting it with the chainring?
are you lifing your feet?
pushing forward on the bar?
anything here would help clarify this better.
Thanks. |
| That's kinda important huh? | kendog
Dec 23, 2002 1:09 PM | | I saw an article in a magazine once about how to do something called a J-hop. This is the same sort of thing.
Start with the basics. Do a bunny hop. This is when you pull both wheels up together. You do it by kind of crouching on the bike and then jumping up and bringing the bike with you. Pull with you hands and feet although it can be done with just the hands if you are skilled (BMX style).
Once you've mastered the bunny hop practice doing it by pulling the front wheel up first and then the back. Basically you pull up on the bar hard (a manual). As the front wheel is still rising you push the bar forward while kind of hopping up. The hop combined with pushing on the bars should bring the rear wheel up. Practice this on ALOT.
Once you have the hop down you have all the tools you need. I am basically doing this type of modified bunny hop, but instead of holding the front tire up I rest it on the top of the log. This lets me preload (I kind of crouch so I can pull up harder) more and gives me the energy necessary to lift the back tire up AND push the bike forward underneath me. That way, the rear tire is leaving the ground before it even gets to the log. This keeps the chainring from hitting the log. You're hopping up first and then moving the bike forward. Sorry, but this is hard to describe... |
| hmmm | weezy
Dec 23, 2002 4:28 PM | | ok, two questions...
1. when you pull up on the bar, do you pedal at all? Every time I try and pull up hard on the bar, I either am so close to the bar or the wheel goes down so fast that there isn't enough time to pull up the rear...
2. When the front wheel is up in the air, what motion do you use to get the rear up? do you pull up using the pedals? or hop? ... by hop, I mean crouch down and thrust the whole body up?
does this make any sense?
Anyone else, please feel free to join in!! |
| use your chainring.... | flat top
Dec 23, 2002 9:25 PM | | If you can do the move that kendog describes that is ideal. If you can't but still want to ride over logs, use your chainring. I disagree with kendog about never touching anything with your chainring. If you damage your chainring by hitting something then you hit too hard. You should go real slow and using your momentum and weight shift place your front wheel over the log and your chainring on the log, (gently, don't bash it), lightly pedal off the log. If your rear wheel slips when you come off the log you are pedaling too hard. Getting your rear wheel over the log comes from lifting your feet - toes pointed down - and pushing your bike back under you with your arms. Once you have mastered this method you will find yourself doing it the way Kendog describes it. It's sort of the next progression of the move.
If you try and get the front to touch then the rear to touch and screw up your timing, now your talking damage. |
| use your chainring.... | kendog
Dec 24, 2002 8:13 AM | | I used to try your method and it never worked. The chainring isn't centered and tends to throw my balance off when it hits the log. Also, my method is alot faster. You can cross the log as quick a you can transfer you weight. I can do it at the equivalent of a jogging or even running pace depending on the log height. |
| using the chainring is no good | KL
Dec 30, 2002 12:45 PM | | the proper technique is to clear the rings completely. A very light rider might get away with using the rings to cross a log.
Kevin L. |
| use your chainring.... | bmateo
Jan 2, 2003 8:30 AM | | Kendog's move is not only "ideal", but it is neccesary. If you roll your chainring, then you are limited to logs of about 12-18 inches. Much more than that and you can't get the chainring on top without leaving the ground (due to geometry of the bike).
I have just started using Kendog's method in recent weeks. It helps a lot to see someone else to do it. One point that has not been mentioned is that having the front wheel on the log gives you leverage to lift the back. Then it is just like described. Lift the back and push forward. It is a fast motion, as you only have a split second to perform it. Try to start on a 6-8 inch log and work up. |
| getting there.... | kendog
Dec 24, 2002 8:09 AM | | 1. You can use a half pedal revolution to get the bar up or just do a manual (don't pedal). It will depend on what you are comfortable with and the height of the log. For small logs I manual. For larger logs I need a little bit of a pedal stroke. Just make sure that your cranks are level when you put your front tire on the log. By level I mean level in relation to the bike not the ground. The cranks should be at 3 and 9 o'clock in relation to the frame.
2. You hop and at the same time push the handlebars up and forward. You need to get your elbows down a little to do this. You can pull up with your feet too. This is kind of cheating, but BFD.
My advice to you is to ride around a parking lot. Practice pulling wheelies with and without pedalling. Then practice lifting only the rear wheel up. You can do this by shifting you weight abruptly forward and pushing on the bars or by hopping a little and pulling up with your feet. Do it both ways.
Once you've mastered that try putting them together. First the wheelie followed by pulling the back up. They have to go together quickly like one-two; not one-pause-two. It just takes a little practice.
When you figure the timing out you'll be nailing them. This is by far the quickest way to get over logs. I leave my riding buddies in the dust when I do this, and I don't break equipment. |
| kendog's way is definately the fastest. | Flat top
Dec 24, 2002 8:54 AM | | Merry Christmas.
Happy trails. |
| thanks dude!!! nm | weezy
Dec 24, 2002 3:25 PM | | nm |
| thoughts.... | GregR
Dec 30, 2002 6:28 PM | | The only way I can explain it is this way.
The speed of your approach is important, about a jogging pace.
Lift the front wheel onto the log, (note after you pull up your arms will be extended and your weight will be slightly back). The bike will be up and in front of you at this point.
Now with the front tire on the log, keep your body moving forward while you try to keep the bike from rolling, as this is going to bring the bars close to you, and you legs will compress. Then perform a bunnyhop but push the handlebars away from you as you lift the back wheel. If it is a large log you probably will end up behind the saddle as the real wheel tops the log.
Once the rear wheel has topped the log, ride it out... |
| Before you even go out on a trail.... | EricTheRed
Jan 8, 2003 9:43 AM | | practice jumping over something in a street. take a 2x4 and jump it w/ out hitting it, then put the 2x4 on something a bit higher (brick,shoes box, whatever) practice that (like the above posts recomend) until you get over w/o hitting it. Rince repeat. Also practice the manual. Most tricks (manual, j-hop, etc) are safer and will teach better technique on flats (aka platforms). Doing bunny hops w/ clipless will teach you bad habbits cause its easier to jump a couple of inches w/ clipless at first.
trials-online is you friend read the instructions and watch the vids, use the pause button to see what the rider is really doing in slow motion
-e |
| |
