|   top 5 weight savers? | Chris XC
May 28, 2002 3:27 PM | | Could a few of you please post the top 5 most cost effective things to drop weight from a bike? Also does anyone know what a rockshox indy c weigh? Thanks |
| re: top 5 weight savers? | pbhulipo
May 28, 2002 4:26 PM | | I hope you find this helpful
http://greatnexus.com/bike/a/7cheapways.htm
If you want to be a bit more extreme...here is an article written by D8 5 years ago, but still applicable
http://www.magi.com/~kroberge/cheapwt.html
Pinyo |
| By cost or weight? | JmZ
May 28, 2002 7:46 PM | | Top five in my book are normally...
Wheels
Tires
Tubes (if applies)
Last two are interchangable... depends on what is already there... but the canidates are...
BB
Post
Handlebar
Seat
And spending huge sums does not always equal great weight savings. Some well known $10 handlebars are lighter than their $50+ counterparts.
JmZ |
| re: top 5 weight savers? | Chris XC
May 28, 2002 10:13 PM | | Thanks for the tips guys. Those links have some info witch I will try to use but they also bringsup some more questions.
1. I have velociraptors 2.1 that came on the bike. They are listed at 637f and 680r but the kevlar ones are alot lighter. Besides weight what advantage or disadvantage does kevlar offer? Tread life? Worth the extra money?
2. Without a scale how would you know if the parts you are ordering are lighter than the ones you are replacing? Can one assume the aftermarket ones are allways better? My bike is a 100% stock fuji except for maxxis flyweights tubes.
3. How much can you "feel" a weight diff? Ofcourse with all else being equal a lighter bike would be a better bike. Does spending say 100$ to save 200g make since? Can you feel a 200 gram diff?
Sorry for all the nOOb questions. Being pretty new to this sport I got alot to learn and mtbr.com has alot of great info. B4 anyone says it I know that making myself a stronger rider is more important than saving weight. Thanks for all the help. |
| re: top 5 weight savers? | Romte
May 29, 2002 4:28 AM | | I pesonnaly don't feel anyone can feel 200 grams while riding (maybe in your living room but not while riding). I get more mud on my bike in one ride that that. If you were to get into pounds then you can feel a difference. I would ride the bike more to find out what you like and don't like. A lighter upgrade might be a smaller tire(1.9 instead of a 2.1)) but you may find you like the wider profile tires better ormaybe you find your geometry should be changed and want a different stem or bar. These questions can't be answered until you have done time on your steed. I have a reasonably light bike but not at the expense of durability. I will say I do like putting a nice new chi-chi part on my bike. The thing about this sport is there is always something newer and lighter coming out. So much so it can drive you crazy (and broke) if you are obsessed with it. A light bike is nice but one that you are comfortable with is better. |
| #2 | pbhulipo
May 29, 2002 5:03 AM | | If you are serious about changing parts, getting a good scale is worthwhile.
Do not always assume that aftermarket products are better and assume that 90% of advertised weights are wrong. I would check with weightweenies to see the actual weight (well...sort of)
http://weightweenies.starbike.com/
Otherwise, ride your bike for a while and replace parts as they break. There will be plenty of opportunities to upgrade...no need to spend anymore money just yet.
Pinyo |
| Tubes and tires are important | pedalinbob
May 29, 2002 6:04 AM | | but you have to balance weight, rolling resistance, casing toughness and traction for your needs.
an inexpensive upgrade might be to try one of the newer, lighter and faster rolling tires (you already have light tubes). you will lose nearly a pound of rotating weight--and you will feel it.
the python airlights are only $20 each, and will roll much faster and weigh much less than your velociraptors. for me, they grip VERY well, and provide a cushioned ride. not great in mud, though.
good luck,
Bob |
| a thought | binary visions
May 29, 2002 7:24 AM | | No, I don't think you can feel a 200g difference. However, most people don't have the money to replace everything at once, right? So spend $100 now, and save 200g. Then in 4 months, maybe you spend another $50 and save 100g more. Before you know it, you've shaved a couple pounds off your bike, and THAT you notice. |
| re: top 5 weight savers? | tlg
May 29, 2002 11:21 AM | | No way you can feel 200g on a bike. Maybe if it's in a wheel/tire/tube, but not throughout the bike. I think I've had farts which weigh more than 200g. Wear spandex rather than baggies and you'll save 200g for much less than $100.
$100 to save 200g? Just for the sake of replacing something to make it lighter? Hell no, unless you're wealthy and have money to throw away. If you break something then spend a little more to reduce weight. You're new to the sprot right? Well plan on breaking stuff!
And besides, if you're not racing does it matter if you have a heavy bike? The extra weight will make ya stronger for when you do get a lighter bike. |
| My top 5 El-cheapo weight savers... | Wrenchester
May 29, 2002 6:25 AM | | First off, you asked the question: Does it make sense to spend $100 to save 200 grams. Definitely! My benchmark is $1/gram. But these 5 things I list usually have a MUCH better ratio than that.
1. Remove stuff you don't need. Cost: free. Examples: reflectors; bolts in unused water bottle bosses; optical gear displays on shifters; chain suck guard (ride for a while without it. If you experience no suck, leave it off.); shorten all your cables as much as is reasonable; threadless headset stem cap (once the stem is torqued down, that stem cap serves no purpose). Anyway, you get the idea.
2. Tubes. Cost: $3-8 each. You're already using Maxxis Flyweights, so I don't need to belabor this point.
3. Grips. Cost: $8-10. I swapped my Bontrager Ergos for Titec Porkrinds and saved 60 grams! Now that's a good bang for the buck!
4. Tires. Cost: $20-40. Now we're spending a bit more money. And, as one of the other posters mentioned, you have to weigh (no pun intended) the weight savings against the "feel" of the tire. Experimentation here can get expensive.
5. Bottom bracket/Crankset. Cost: $180-500. I've been talking up the value of the Truvativ Stylo Team crankset here for months. Well, I finally got one, along with a Shook (American Classic) ISIS bottom bracket. I spent $170 on these two items. Dropped about 225 grams. But the stiffness of the ISIS setup and the shifting of the TruShift chainrings proved a far greater benefit than the weight savings. I wholeheartedly recommend this upgrade! |
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