|   yet more ss commuter project questions... | namaSSte
Sep 22, 2003 6:33 AM | | hopefully I haven't used my quota yet.
Has anyone ever put a star fangled nut in a 1" threaded fork and then used a threadless stem and 1" top cap? Just wondering if it could be done.
Also, a question about freewheels. I need a 13T freewheel. Can I change out the cog in my current one (16T) or do I need an new freewheel altogether? If I need a new one, does it matter what I get (I read some can only go on flip flop hubs and was concerned)?
Other than those issues, the project is coming along nicely. My sister in law had a Raleigh Technium that had broken seatstays so I stripped a bunch of stuff off of it. Still, those Frenchies (I have a Gitane as my project) really screwed stuff up with all their strange threading and stuff. The paint is done (looks like the gray Bianchi Pista color) and I swapped the bb axle and overhauled the assembly. Brakes from the Raleigh are installed, Sakae cranks and ATACs are on. The headset thing is a bit of a problem since I am trying to change forks. Senor Pedro was kind enough to send me some levers so that's also a go. I have to buy a 25mm post, a stem, and pick up some cheapo bars from the co-op and I'm close. I'd like to ditch the clunky bmx chain too and a 3/32 freewheel would allow me to do that.
I'll keep you all posted and put a pic when she's done. I think I can keep costs to about $85 when its all said and done so I guess the headaches are worth it. Thanks for all the help and let me know whatcha think about my questions.
Peace,
Scott |
| answers? | bn
Sep 22, 2003 6:51 AM | | Re: fork, sure you can do it. But you don't really want the stem clamping the threads. Ideally you'll want a fork w/really long steerer and cut off the threads.
Fe: FWs. I'm not aware of any replaceable cogs (that woud make everyone's lives easier!) and not even sure that a 13t is made. 14t and 15t FWs required different threading, i.e., metric BMX hub. |
| Do they even make a 13t frewheel?.......I'm not sure....... | scarecrow
Sep 22, 2003 6:51 AM | | about that- it seems a 13 would be too small to house the freewheeel mech. As for the threaded fork thing, yes and no- Yes because I read about Postal's team mechanics doing that this year. They filed down the threads first. And no because if it's the fork that came with the bike, it will be too short. Personally, I wouldn't risk it even if it were long enough as the steerer strenth is sure to be compromised. |
| fork stem dilemma solved... | namaSSte
Sep 22, 2003 9:01 AM | | duh! Have my lbs rechase the steer tube to add threads, throw in a quill stem and porblem solved. I'll deal with the gearing issue later. |
| careful there...... | bn
Sep 22, 2003 9:08 AM | | Cutting new threads may weaken the steerer. Also, not all LBS can or will do it. |
| the good and bad news... | namaSSte
Sep 22, 2003 10:21 AM | | bad news is that you could be right about weakening the steerer (since this is only for a road commuter, it won't be subject to any real thrashings that could cause failure). good news is that my lbs has the tool and is willing to do it for $15. it's a much cheaper alternative to buying another fork and/or fork and headset. I do appreciate the concern though. Steerer failure is the kinda stuff bikers have nightmares about! |
| cutting (not chasing) fork threads is an accepted practice | club
Sep 22, 2003 1:58 PM | | it's a lot of grief to do it, though, and boy howdy is it expensive to get the cutting tool re-sharpened.
cutting threads deeper on a steerer is a safe, accepted practice. the deeper you go on the steerer, the thicker the tube wall, because steerers are butted and quite thick toward the crown end, so cutting threads shouldn't be aproblem at all. secondly, the worst that could happen if the steerer cracks at the threads is the headset adjustment goes screwy and you notice something awry immediately. The fork ain't gonna come flying out of the head tube or anything like that, and you should still have steering control, although the thing will be way loose. the wedge portion of a quill stem should never be tightened against the threaded portion of the steerer, but should be deeper in the steerer than the threads are cut. I'm sure you knew that. so as long as you adhere to the above inviolate rule, your stem will still be firmly attached to the fork and nothing catastrophic should occur. |
| yet still more answers...... | gspot
Sep 22, 2003 12:28 PM | | yes... no 13t freewheels are available in the standard 1.37x24 tpi thread. the standard english thread...
some bmx and flaipflop hubs run a smaller thread on the other sid to get an even lover gearing without changing sprokets...
also. i came across a 25.0 seatpost on ebay...
i'll try to post the link as soon as i re discover it...
also, if a 25.0 mm seat post is hard to find... you can get a larger diamenter one, like 25.4, or even 26.0, and jam it down the seat tube... hey theres a chance you will never get it out.. but its cheap and theft proof....
also, are you willing to trade those levers for some non areo ones...
cheapo bars and stem at the co-op are a great idea... also, you can experiment with some different shapes, for cheap... i got a pair of cruiser handlebars... and flipped them to make the poor mans dirt drops... $5 @ the lbs...
you get the picture...
thanks |
| herres the link to the 25.0mm seatpost..... | gspot
Sep 22, 2003 1:27 PM | | here ya go...
glad to help you....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3628008666&category=42319 |
| udaman thanks! actually thanks to all of ya!!! | namaSSte
Sep 23, 2003 4:46 AM | | sooner or later this thing is gonna see pavement again and I'll be back to commuting to work. Right now the target timing is by the end of the weekend. Fingers crossed!
Thanks again everyone. |
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