|   Chains...spokes and derailer adjustment | OrBust
Jan 4, 2002 3:12 AM | | Im curious how you tell how tight you should get your derailer? I can shorten the chain to the point of the derailer almost hitting the chainstay, when its in the biggest gear. How tight should I go?
Secondly, what are some good spokes to use. I saw some straight gauge spokes that weighed the same as double butted, and the straights were WAY less expensive. Is it still a safe bet to run doubles becuase of their 'give' which makes the wheel stronger?
And last, whats a good chain to use? Im running a sachs with the powerlink....I heard good things about this chain, but is there anything else I should be looking at? Thanks alot guys! |
| re: Chains...spokes and derailer adjustment | Klieg
Jan 4, 2002 5:28 AM | | From what I have learned, double butted spokes are the better way to build wheels. They are lighter and do not sacrifice any strength. Of course, they are more expensive too. Spokes need strength at the ends, so double butted works great. I would be suspect of a straight gauge spoke that weighs very close to a double butted. I would think that you would need to make a straight spoke extremely thin to achieve your weight savings, and that will sacrifice strength. Of course, you can always go with Ti spokes, but the cost difference is usually far too great to make it worthwhile. Wheels are so important (at least the rear one) in trials that I wouldn't cut any corners there. Spend a little bit more money and get a much happier wheel that will last a lot longer.
As for chains, the "ideal" length for X-C use is to have the derailleur be almost straight when you are in big ring/bing cog (not that you'd ever use this gear). This theory can hold true for trials too. If you have a dedicated stock bike, shorten the chain to the point where the derailleur is straightened out when in the biggest cog. That's the minimum chain length you need to reach all of your gears. The shorter the chain, the less likely it is to fly off at in-opportune times.
With the type of chain, I'll leave that to someone who knows about chains.
Just my two cents (well, maybe five cents) |
| TI spokes | Optikal
Jan 4, 2002 11:35 AM | | The few companies that make TI spokes recomend that you use brass, not alloy, nipples to stop corosion. Since brass nipples weight more than alloy, the weight you saved by using expensive TI spokes is almost negated.
As for chains, I've had pretty good luck with Sachs chains. I'm currently using a IRD chain that is supposedly unbreakable. If you have the cash, the Dura Ace chains are super strong, and they still make an 8 speed if thats your thing. |
| re: Chains...spokes and derailer adjustment | Regder
Jan 4, 2002 6:09 PM | | you should shorten your derailleur so that it's past 90 degrees, no need to go too far though. If you go too far (i.e. hitting the chainstay), shifting will be a complete pain, and you'll wear out your derailleur pulleys in an alarming time. My trials gear is the easiest gear that I'm in so I don't have to worry about having to shift up, and having one ring eliminates any other confusion.
go for quality dt/wheelsmith/sapim spokes, if you aren't a bruiser any decently thick gauge will be enough.
I like sram with the powerlink. If you are a heavy/abusive rider, you might want to take out the powerlink, IT IS the weakest link (hehe, I just finished watching the show...). The Rohloff and IRD chains are both high quality but are considerably more expensive than the Sram.
If you keep an eye on chain stretch you shouldn't have many problems with broken chains. |
| re: Chains...spokes and derailer adjustment | Tommot
Jan 5, 2002 10:30 AM | | 1. brass nipples are used for two reasons - they dont round off easily when truing, and alloy ones can become chemically joined to the alloy rim if no eyelets or alu eyelets are used.
2. double butted spokes are used on nearly all good wheels. b this is NOT done to save weight. it means that energy can be dissipated more easily, so there is less fatigue in the spokes, resulting in a stronger wheel. its probably worth getting good spokes - dt, sapim etc, instead of no name money saving ones.
As for the mech, i took out as many links as possible for my trials gear, which was at the time 3rd, on a normal cassette. it worked incredibly smoothely, and it would not make a sound. however, as i progressed, i moved into 5th, and now the mech slaps against the frame ALL THE TIME, meaning i can hardly backhop without making a noise.
so its kind of a gamble. I have no idea why there was such a change, and i dont know how to fix it, other than putting some more links in, which i might do. |
| Well... | specP.3
Jan 4, 2002 6:54 PM | | When i got my chain shortened at cyclotopia the guy said that short chains tend to shift smoother, although i did not notice much of a diffrence. Also, Jasons chain is comleatly parrell to his chainstay and it shifts fine.
Paul and i will be i town tomarrow around 1
Later |
| Sweet... | OrBust
Jan 4, 2002 7:48 PM | | Right on man....lets go for a ride tomarrow. I rolled over to Salem today, and got my ass chewed out like 3 times...everywhere I went somebody was giving me shit. Later bro |
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