|   Rim swap question here: relace everything or... | Tscheezy
Dec 4, 2002 9:11 PM | | try to keep the spokes in their general pattern? I have new rims and will reuse the spokes (the original wheels are new, just putting on a much wider rim) and hubs. The spoke lengths are correct.
It almost seems easier to just unlace everything and build from scratch, but I am open to the idea of going the fast way and just taking all the nipples off and trying to rethread the spokes onto the new rim in place. Ideas?
tscheezy |
| disagree with you on that one... | GMF
Dec 4, 2002 11:32 PM | | It is certainly much easier to just tape the two rims together (valve holes lined up, spoke offsets matching, etc.) and just swap a spoke at a time.
I've done it both ways, and you end up fighting with all the spokes loose in the hub if you unlace everything... if you try to beat that by taking out spokes, then you are doing kind of funky things with reusing pre-stressed spokes, etc...
Basically, just go the "fast" way. It really is the "right" way.
just my two pence.
-GMF |
| I've done it.................... | Mike T.
Dec 5, 2002 3:27 AM | | .....by twist-tying the final crosses of the spokes together and then removing the rim and fitting the new one. I've never done it the "tape the two rims together" method so I don't know which is easier or faster. |
| tape two togewther, do one "set" at a time | Seb
Dec 5, 2002 8:42 AM | | I've done a couple rim swaps where I taped the rims toghtehr and used the old spokes. Its very much easier for me than a full build, or working with a loose hub with spokes poking out (even twist tied). To keep thins going smoothly, start on one side doing all the "outside" (on top of the final cross) spokes for that side. The do that sides "inside" spokes. At this point, you'll have each rim laced to the spokes that go to its "side" in the pair. Then you just flip the whole deal over, do the "inside" spokes, then the final "outside" spokes.
This may not be a simple description, but its simple in practice. The point is, you can do one set at a time very quicly this way, because there's not uncrossing / lacing / recrossing involved. |
| take a long copper wire and loop around each last cross... | clary.
Dec 5, 2002 9:07 AM | | so that you loop the cross, extend to the next cross, then loop the cross, etc. This will not only keep the paired crossed spokes together, but will keep the whole affair held together. I then remove the nipples and switch to the new rim making sure of the correct spoke positions on the rim (drive side spokes on drive side rim holes and valve position), re-fit the nipples, remove the copper wire and re-true.
![](http://gallery.consumerreview.com/webcrossing/images/coppertwist.jpg")
(tied and soldered spokes do not need this step) |
| Keep the spokes in their original orientation. | CSB
Dec 5, 2002 11:52 AM | | See an explanation as to why from the author of The Bicycle Wheel:
http://draco.acs.uci.edu/rbfaq/FAQ/8c.3.html
I prefer to tape the two rims together, slacken all of the spokes and then move the spokes over one-by-one. I hate to have the spokes scratch a new rim. |
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